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is that because he doesn't know ? if you are proposing to get him to fit the unvented cylinder i hope you have checked he has the G3 cert ? but to answer your question yes any fully pumped heat only boiler can be used with an unvented cylinder i would also be looking at a diff cylinder...

it doesn't have to be metal it can be plastic, I normally use waste pipe, the sleeve is more there to prevent a leak inside the wall filling the cavity which is why it's sealed on the inside only & to stop the copper from corrosion your installer is wrong in saying it must be metal, although...

& neither is a push fit cap (which I guess is what you mean as you said rubber olive) it needs to either be a compression cap or a soldered cap both of course providing it's still connected to the gas supply, as above it might be dead which is why it's moving around

I don't care if he's young or old that work is as ruff as a badgers arse, as others have said stop the chq, deduct the cost of repairs ie new carpets where he has damaged them either through solder, water or inhibitor & phone gas safe & get an inspection done ASAP. what on earth was he using...

just replace the stat thats there with another honeywell, they are less than £20 why are you trying to over complicate things & yes the building regs req a room stat

I'm slightly confused, are you talking about a garage that is along side the house, you said a garage conversion so why are you talking about having a shell built ?

I just love that he wants £149-99 for an old NEC mobile phone that doesn't work with no charger :lol:

not if they are boxed using plasterboard & skimmed, i would certainly prefer that option to beating up the concrete & replacing the floor every 6 months, copper in screed will be knackered (all of it) if it isn't protected so repairing a leak is a complete waste of time & money

I use 20mm for 15mm & 25mm for 22mm, but do a search (or someone might have a link) because there are distances for drilling a joist

forget about the pipes under the floor if they are leaking, run new drops to each of the rads from the roof, i don't know why the first plumber didn't suggest this

as ss said it sounds like the pipework has been installed incorrectly, cylinder ret should always be the last connection before the boiler

maybe you are banned :lol:

no probs two answers are better than none :wink:

it should be serviced every year by someone with the G3 cert

as above & i wouldn't get this numpty to test it, i think he should just stick to changing your tap washers in future

my 5p worth, charging £80 p/h constantly is wrong, most trades give a discount after the first hr, i know we only have one side of the story (but i have no reason to disbelieve the OP), personally if i couldn't find the leak then i would have charged for the first hr & no more, i would have also...

you will have drops to every rad downstairs so if you only fit one then it will only drain that rad & the ones upstairs leaving the other 3 rads & their pipework downstairs still full, change all the locksheild rad valves downstairs for ones with built in drain offs

I think you have already sussed that answer :wink:

Oh dear I hope he doesn't get upset & make me call him a ******** (cheers DM)

because unless the conservatory rad is connected via a zone valve & a room stat then this is against the building regs, you aren't allowed to just connect onto the existing system any longer