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Painting broad areas in direct sunlight can cause the paint to ''set'' tooo quickly, sounds to me like the sags are the result off paint skinning before it was spread and layed off. The blisters perhaps are where the thick edges are shrivelling? The sticky mess is a classic case of the gloss...

Difficult to estimate when/if it will peel, did you clean/dust off even ? Peeling can happen as soon as paint cures after about 30 days. Or. Sometimes lasts untill the next time it's being painted and a lot of bad language when paint comes off in sheets.

Yeah But!!!! Hammerite garage door paint is is an enamel thinned/cleaned up with white spirit. :wink: Myself when I do a 'sound' metal garage door same colour, I abrade lightly to dull, wash, and one/ two coats of conventional gloss only.

:shock: :shock: :?: Are they Polish :?:

:lol: :lol:

Good to hear. The reason why PVA is useless is because it just lays on the surface. OK it seals just enough to give a nice surface for NEAT emulsion and all will appear good untill later's when emulsion has cured, and someone bangs wall with broom handle etc = chips, worse if you decide to...

:lol:

Typical greenspeak. make job as uneconomic as possible and save the planet~~ Nitromors frowned on because it's mildly carcegenic like your burnt toast. Sunbathing is far worse :roll:

Can't see what the problem with Nitromors is? Bit of a smell ok But theres lots worse stuff like caustic soda~~~ pair of rubber gloves and be sensible no probs. Safe in the right hands :wink: Afraid I just cant wait overnight. Stripped a pinted exterior oak door recently with nitromor's...

The endurance is the retail Trade diamond matt I've used it on rads ok.. just make sure you abrade the paint on the metal surface especcially if its gloss. with 120 paper, just enough to dull the gloss, not strip it. :wink:

Have to agree water based /eco strippers are crap. Like trying to strip paint with Swarfega hand cleaner. :roll:

Oops I should have wrote 'cut in with a 4" walbrush and filled with a 9" mohair on flat area's and medium pile on textured.' :oops:

Must Admit i dont know the allcoat. But! I use this http://www.zinsseruk.com/Shop/Product.aspx?cId=130&pgId=357 on nicotine stains and thin down with absolutly nooo problem with white spirit.. bit of a smell for an hr or so but all dry and ready to apply any type of finish in one hr. I...

I tend to smear a very tiny amount of Vaseline along the closing strips.(after the gloss has gone dry). Gloss can take up to 30 days to harden/ cure.

Don't worry I agree too :wink: Thats why I would'nt invest in expensive primers.

:lol: :lol:

When I come across 'mud cracking' I find a THINNED SOLVENT BASED UNDERCOAT solves the problem of waterbased paints reacting the pva/ too thick emulsion / cracking on caulking/etc. let it dry. Then two coats of any type emulsion. Good luck :wink:

My thoughts remain same..stabilising solution is not alkali resisting. We all know that solvent undercoat/gloss on asbestos brings us to this problem. The surface originally was probably smooth. Then the alkaline in asbestos attacks the solvent u/c etc etc~~~. If it was render or some other...

Oh it it's asbestos then ? :oops: As billin says If is asbestos, the neighbours undercoat and gloss is the cause. Years ago it had to be an alkali resisting primer, but a thinned coat of masonry followed by 1 thicker coat of masonry is the standard. I would scrape off (no stabiliser on...

1930's It's sure to be render. look in loft and you should see rough sawn planks 6"x1" cladding. Outside they put a membrane (building paper/ felt :?: ) then plaster lath then render, maybe lime mortar ((?)) Unless this was replaced with ply/ etc recently Carefull not to lean ladder onto the...