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how old is the property? 1930's ? Would be render surely. :? Looks like classic case of Stabiliser applied to a sound rendered surface. this makes it too glossy and masonry paint wont stick to glossy surface.

Sorry crossed wires here.. Zin 123 is a primer sealer not finishing coat. I should have wrote; ''I use zin 123 as a primer for galvanised''. well it was late :)

Hmm the superdec is waterbased, not tried it myself on metal. I don't use Hammerite anymore, expensive thinners etc. We used to carry a container of thinners that we dipped the brush in when clogging/ stringing happend. But after evaluating fencing/ metalware etc we came to same conclusin as...

Way back in 1984 the only place whithin 20 miles to get paint mixed (old dulux colouriser :) ) was a little hardware shop in our village. Often when using masonry colours I had the option (trade customers only lol) of having brilliant white weathershield tinted. This cost £1.00 extra and...

This Is NOT uncommon with the DIAMOND stuff. Whats happening is the the cut in section has formed a SKIN i.e. underneath the skin, the paint is still not set~~ then when you roll, the skin picks up and congeals with the half dry stuff underneath. or something like that :wink: Sometimes It...

Yes Solo convert here too. and, seems to be touch dry in a sensible time. Aquatec Discontinued now :wink: I tried the dulux water based ecosure gloss and u/c.. dissaponted , use twice as much trying to load evenly so that it flows out. ****ed off when I found area's where it had slumped...

15 mm :shock: Sorry like you, the most I ever see paper expand is 6mm. Paper reps usually blame us for pressing too hard and stretching the paper when hanging :roll: bstids. One bad job I recall was due to frosty nights and the customer closing doors to the lounge/ diner. no heat...

I just used to use a product called 'Grangers' silicone sealant. This seemed to dissapear when Thompsons water seal hit the shelves with a massive promotion. Instructions say's its breathable. Though I usually find old bare render does'nt need any treatment, unless it's obviously crumbling etc.

Personally I like to let the below dpc render breath, perhaps treat bare render with silicone solution. Or. If you want to paint it. use a masonry paint which is microporous.(sandtex smooth is good) Thin first coat then a more round (thicker) coat to finish off. This wont crack and flake :wink:

Hi. You have to prime first, then udercoat with the dulux primer u/c. i.e. It wont prime and u/c in one coat :wink: Good luck

so perhaps I should try the Dulux Aquatic water based gloss first.

Yeah I tend to line in what direction suits me / the job. like recently i was too lazy to go home and pick up a scaffold baton for cross lining so I lined vertical. Tho there are occasions where care should be taken that the finish paper when returning corners and matching up pattern wont make...

perhaps he's already sorted by now, probably dissapointed in spending £K'ssss and seeing it peel, same result with weathershield but cost lots less? :wink:

Sometimes I get away with using a stanley blade in a window scraper to gently slice out the blobby bit, this usually reveals the wet paint underneath, leave that to dry for an hour or so then abrade very gently. but as mentioned above it takes 30 days min to fully harden / cure. But TBH I...

As dcdec says (hi dcdec :) ) thinned masonry paint should be used as a primer . then one/ two of more neater coats. Stabiliser is meant for chalky / powdery surfaces, What you describe is a classic case of the stabiliser leaving a glossy like finish, which the masonry paint can't adhere to...

I always fell for that, thinking about what i was giving up. All the so called experts who never smoked are ready to counsel for withdrawal symptoms which i realised after 45 yrs are just imagination~~~been without fag 4yrs now after realisng I want giving anything up at all (only coffing up...

:lol: Fill the joints with pollyfila, get some 1400 grade lining, use a ready mixed paste, size/prime the board with the paste, cross line , allow to dry then hang paper. You can use solvite paste = cheaper but it might take a few days to dry, paste may run and you will have to mop up pools...

The spray primer (white) is perfect for blocking water/smoke stains in smallish areas. much copied by polycell etc.. :) For larger area's we thin down some solvent based undercoat with white spirit and coat over the stained area .. allow to dry thro. then one / two coats of emulsion...

Leave blisters alone till fully dry.. If it dries out (24 hrs) without any blemish's then leave it alone. :wink: I suspect the B&Q crap being very porous, is leaving the prime coats in as hot (very porous) state as the bare plaster. The Dulux trade is very thick I suspect you putting it...

Use stabiliser (thinned) and you wont need to get too much off. Done it many times on pre 60's property. Primers like 123 need to be thinned in some situations. not all, but thats the job of a Decci to decide what the on site substrate requires. Not the job of a Tech Author.