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Jesus those are 2006 prices ffks. :shock: Cost lots more in this recession ... :wink:

:lol: They want £45.80 RETAIL for 5lt dulux trade matt emulsion cd colours. at local brewers.. and wunder why people are going to sheds.. :roll: I dont pay that BTW :wink:

Solo and once in my opinion are, as ian stated prviously, only good where the existing paintwork is already white, sound with hardly any filling. I have just tried a hallway where existing white woodwork had yellowed (10yrs old) I once'd all doors with roller one day. Had to lose a day. so only...

AULD post :wink: Sorry I dont agree dec .. as long as no seams are visible, or any pat looks right. Cutting into cnrs should'nt be a prob to a skilled deccie. ok a scaffold plank and steps required etc... Though as Zampa stated back in 2008 common sense.. :wink:

I use this http://www.zinsseruk.com/shop/Product.aspx?cId=130&pgId=357 on stained/varnish work. Brilliant :wink: . Make sure substrate clean, It says no need to sand but ald habits make me sand lightly with 120/180. fill any cracks etc, then one coat of coverall, one undercoat (dulux acrylic...

If it's off shelf colour expect to pay circia £25 per 5lt if it has to be mixed expect to pay £40 per 5 ltr in dulux trade masonry. Are walls clean/sound i.e no algae/fungus ? are we talking walls only. do you want upvc cleaning ? Lots of ladder work/ scaffold? £2,000 is not a rip off...

:? erm we usually caulk then paint. But silicone dont like paint and will discolour eventually and be a pig to paint/ remove laters etc .

Before coating all of the frame, touch in the bare bits first. i.e dab over the bare bits with the stain and feather out to blend with old stain. Do this several times until your happy, then coat overall... Takes time but strip otherwise.. TBH stripping with nitromorse is quite quick on...

The ws undercoat is a primer as well as an undercoat. used to be ; prime any bare wood with 'preservative basecoat' this was stage one. the preservative primer of corse should only be used on bare wood. now they say bare wood= 2coats of undercoat and one gloss. If prviously painted one...

oh u beat me r/c :lol:

I would try the rust converter and spot prime all the area which turns black/ blue dpending on what rust eater you find (halfords etc) with solvent based undercoat. I use 123 lots nowadays might b worth looking at this. http://www.zinsseruk.com/Shop/Product.aspx?cId=130&pgId=355 Bournemouth...

sounds like a dulux trade cd colour 5lt? you might be able to buy 1ltr in some colours. (mixed range) Not able to say about glue never done that.. maybe go over with new calk nozzle just barley cut to allow only a thin thread of caulk out and place nozzle into the cracked between caulk and...

Interesting thoughts on the iron pyrates r/c. My thoughts before reading that it was 'new render', was that someone had used a wire brush to clean off before painting, leaving wire bristles trapped in the dash. I did a job earlier this year with same rusty stain spots. I dabbed some rust...

I cant see your pics; but sounds like the caulking has been applied to dry plaster..(often happens) I either mist coat first then caulk or dampen area with a sponge before caulking otherwise the plaster just dries out the caulk without sticking. if its peeling and unsightly afraid only way is...

Yes your right.. Asbestos should not be painted with solvent u/c gloss without first applying an alkali resisant primer sealer. The salts in asbestos react and push off paint like your experiencing now. Masonry paint is a good primer and might be cheaper than buying special primers like...

Plasterer is right.. :wink: On bare plaster ; seal with a mist coat.. this is a thinned down coat of the emulsion you are going to use. On drywall/ skim I usually have to thin (with clean water) up to 40% to seal the plaster. Then one or two coats of a more thicker paint mix. A non vinyl...

BBut the water based basecoats will not hold back the nicotine m8.. and the stain will bleed through as the coats dry. :cry: You will waste money on the basecoats.. The coverstain will go strait onto the many emulsion coats you have already applied without the need (now) for sugar soap.

http://www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=155483 Thanks opps.. The ammonia works wonders.. But Boots stores say nope go away this is a chemist lol.... Still learning :lol:

Usually any colours can be mixed. In weathershield. But for example, last year they said can't mix Buttermilk in weathershield gloss/u/c :shock: ..?? can't recall why but there u go :)

What filler? onetime? I prefer polyfilla (interior).. Sometimes the substrate becomes friable when filler is applied to crack.. might try priming the area to fill with either solvent undercoat (thinned with white spirit) or some zinsser 123. (waterbased) Apply filler let dry then prime filler...