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No need to google one of those things i need to know for work. We use EPDM for everything as it doesn't require any maintenance, if it can hold a seal at 39,000 feet i'm happy to trust a bar or 2 of water with them.

What are the O-rings made of that makes a big difference. At work we go by ARP5316 which states, 5 years: Polyurethane (millable), SBR, Natural Rubber, Polybutadine, Polyisoprene 15 years: Nitrile, Neoprene, HNBR, Polyacrylate, Butyl Unlimited: Ethylene Propylene, Fluorocarbon, Perfluorinated...

Went with the Hep2o 22mm conduit in the end, had to get 25m of the stuff but still cheaper than plan b which was 28mm copper pipe. At least this way it will be possible to remove and replace the 22mm if its ever needed. Im guessing the heatloss into the wall wont be too high but i couldnt chase...

Solvent is so easy. Dry fit everything, mark up with a pen or similar, then glue and align all the previous marks. I cant think of a time when i would use pushfit.

Went to the local hardware shop and the 22 wouldn't even for in 28mm pipe. Found you can buy some hep2o conduit for the job only £20 for 25 meters is the flexible stuff so will need more support while the cement and plaster dry but at least I know it will have the right amount of clearance for...

Wanting a pipe/conduit to bury in the wall to allow me to run the 22mm flow and return to upstairs. It will be going into a solid brick wall from what i gather i can take upto around 30mm out of the brick vertically. So idealy i want to keep the conduit as small OD as i can, hoping the 28mm will...

I don't buy the temperature thing, what about speedfit used on hot water that goes through much higher temperature swings and doesn't just leak.

In my case I was glueing the skirting with pink grip so needed something with more strength.

I thought that was only an issue if it was a concrete floor? Looks like suspended floor boards to me. I have filled all mine with hardwall only left a couple of mm between the plaster and floor boards to allow for any movement.

And I bet if I started spouting Aviation electronics abbreviations to you they would go straight over your head as well. At a guess MRT I would guess mean radiator temperature, but no I honestly don't know so clever you.

Most of mine are supported by the joist notches so like yours every 16" or so. One place where it was a wide span i put the 15mm pipe through some 20mm conduit to support it, otherwise i would have needed a noggin or something putting in, and i have loads of 20mm conduit.

Largest going in is a 22 600x1800 hardly mahoosive, i dont see the point of going smaller other than for looks and initial cost. You can always turn them down, but not up.

I know it's ideal to insulate everything but not always practical. My joists are already hacked to bits, so I'm not drilling or making the notches any deeper so I can insulate pipes.

Ideally the more insulation the better but indoors doesn't matter. Anywhere unheated needs it and the really thick stuff such as the loft or crawl space. It's a bylaw approval I forget the number.

Like Dan says we're both learning from this so please go on. Anything here will help him get the correct rads.

I'm a little confused. Are you actually replying to me. I said I know nothing about flues which is why I'm not fitting a boiler. I also said I don't have the equipment to check gas pressure which is why I'm not running the gas pipe. I still don't know what I have wrote regards radiator output...

I don't need help with the radiator temperatures, or design. I would fit the boiler myself if I was allowed. The only bit I know a limited amount about is regulations regards the flue and I don't have the great for measuring gas pressure drop else I would run the gas myself as well. Running the...

To insulate the pipe would push it down either side of the joist the notches are only just big enough. Plus it's internal space so not wasted heat.

I'm insulating a long run upstairs purely because I plan on pushing the pipe through from front of house to the back, the insulation will protect the pipe and it will be supported on the plasterboard ceiling with some clips at each end to support the fittings. Else where upstairs there won't be...

Doing the actual work about 2 hours so far. Only one on the wall with pipework run out of the room in 15mm waiting for the next room to be done. Didn't want to do too much over winter as the next step requires the boiler being turned off for good. Be all go in about a month when we can do...