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This is how mine look as they are going in. A 20mm conduit per 2 network cables, you can get 4 cables in a single tube but its tight.

For a house to blow up would you not smell the gas by that point. I smelt gas in my parents house once, they didnt but got BG round anyway, even with his device he said it was a tiny leak and how did we spot it. So i can only guess a house full of gas would be pretty obvious.

Its not easy in a home environment, i just run them as is where ever they will fit. The short runs typically seen in homes make it more forgiving, so you can get away with running next to mains. The only place i use conduit is from the wall socket to below the skirting, i use 20mm. Then under...

I would go with two coats of multi finish, first to fill in the lows then a skim on top to finish it off.

As far as i have read he hasnt been charged at all yet. "arrested on suspicion of causing an explosion to endanger life"

Any more ideas with the original post? I plan on leaving the external air brick there, it only adds to the loft ventilation.

Started with the next room now. Stripped the paper off during the week, on this wall gave up when the plaster started to come away from the wall, today this is the result. This is the rest of the room. Jobs for today are to remove all skirting boards and prep the walls for repair/plastering.

Im decorating a room and removed an air vent, the plan is to brick it up is this okay. The airvent never seemed to have any airflow and on removal it turns out the house has cavity insulation. I removed the "fluff" from in front of the air brick, and reaching up it appears to be clear into...

I used Thistle Multifinish i think.

We have a horrible textured finish on our ceilings, i use a belt sander to take the worst off then skim it. Use a really coarse belt in the sander, and it makes a great key for the plaster.

The hose through the wall should be level but you go bigger, for a 40mm waste you drill a 52mm hole.

Run the pipes in conduit and secure to the brickwork, then plaster over the top. Its how i do my network cables allows you to remove if you ever need to, should work fine for pipes and allow expansion/movement.

So having never done any plastering or plumbing before i decided to tackle as much as i can myself. Thanks to these forums and the wealth of information available on the internet. When we moved in the first thing we did was get an electrician to rewire the house, a single socket in each room...

You will probably be able to remove the overflow pipe as well to tidy things up. Most newer ones overflow internally now.

You can undo the nut, and use new pipe with a new olive. Or you could cut about half way along clean the pipe and use a push fit flexi with a built in isolation valve.

Okay thanks for the advice.

Discharging into a drain need to go along a wall for about 3 meters then through a wall then a 90 degree into the drain, might also need a couple of other fittings to bring it away from the wall enough for the hole I have yet to drill, doubt I can drill close enough to the wall.

Thanks that's a nice tidy option. Are there any options to go longer than 3m with 40mm.

Will these two fit together to allow me to drain a washing machine and dryer, not at the same time. http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-washing-machine-trap-white-40mm/18640 with the dryer using this. http://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-appliance-trap-adaptor-white-40mm/11180 Or is it better...

Loctite 55 isn't a sealant its to replace the ptfe tape. Much better at its job.