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Hi Quick one. Want to insulate upstairs ceilings below loft space as joists only 100mm. Ceilings may have asbestos plaster so would like to cover in c.20mm PIR (foamed or bonded in place, or some screws if not flat enough) then overboard with new pink plasterboard using c.70mm drywall screws...

Hi, So my builder left the slab exposed for 3-4 months after laying it (badly) on a vastly over running build. So now that roof is on its floor insulation time. Weve had heaters and 3 dehumidifiers running 12 hours a day and overnight sometimes. We scrub slab to remove dark mud, clay etc then a...

do you use tilt fillets? are BC OK with 11.5? as LABC/NHBC etc guidelines say min 15mm @ 40cm joist centres? also where is the Vapour layer there? cant see it lapped up the upstand?

Hi Hopefully an easy one - hard to find info online. I am making upstands myself for a new roof extension with skylights. 2 x 1.2x1.7M skylights. This is my amateur 3D model of the upstand.. shows indication of VCL in yellow lapped up the side above the top deck/insulation/EPDM and have...

you mean the bill that the builder has already inflated by 000's with no justification and the back of our house hanging open....

cheers for that. Yes it comes down to quality of weld at the end of the day it seems... You wouldn't consider a bolted plate across the bottom to be worthwhile?

The main query was whether I could/should reinforce with a plate underneath given my questioning the changed design... this is what I still need input on... tho Tony feels its OK. BC just said to me what I thought they would say.. they will just check the joint based on what is agreed in way of...

yes am assuming so... just not reassured that it's OK

I know the SE drw shows welded stiffener, but its not loaded in shear as per what was delivered. yes, I got the steel supplier to send me a calc from a steels/stress engineer accepting responsibility... But creating a redundancy seems needed to me.... If you were going to create a face-face...

not sure what they'd do... but there are a lot of experienced people on here, so wouldn't say is particularly random...

Input appreciated here from someone of a Stress analysis/welding background. My extension and knock through is becoming a comedy of errors during construction... never mind the unjustified extra charges! S.E. specified this: What the Steel Fabricator/Installer actually turned-up with and...

that's the only section from the S.E. As I dont'have an Architect I am relying on 'competent builder'... One thing that puzzles me is how do specifiers deal with the fact the moisture could condense and or run down onto the steel plate over the cavity ... and just sit there....

ah, thanks for the input on the hit and miss welding...and thermal mass.useful to know. Seems external wall insulation over the steel and blockwork would be the only decent way of insulation the steel to prevent possible condensation & bridging... Obviously, just like all other mistakes on this...

I felt creating and warm knauf bubble inside the steel would slow down the rate of heat loss as cold moves from the plate into the box... similar to how a catnic is insulated with foam... Would this not be the same principle? Ive read that these box and plates can be considered...

ah, so you mean wrapping the steel plate with some insulation? even though it will be mortared and blockwork on it on the outer leaf..?

OK, so you wouldn't bother insulating within the steel box...? just the cavity and then plasterboard over on the internal...?

Hi, Can't seem to get a sensible answer on this. SE has specified a steel for over bifolds...see below. Question is how to minimise cold bridge? Can I/should I just pack with some say knauf 32 or 35 slab...for example? It's about 3.15M Long

yes exactly - I didn't want to assume foundations were OK, then have to re-design after demolition of the old rear of kitchen... (if they dug down and found foundation issues.. but as it turned out, there is basically hardly any foundation... then sheet rock within about 80cm.) and was trying to...

is a good point.. but I didn't realise SE would bridge the cavity like that or I would have done... but time as getting tight.. but is still not clear why it had to bridge cavity at all. But thermally... the adjacent bit of house side wall is 1930's solid wall... and is now part of the open...

i specified to use the new side wall of extension to avoid having to install a steel post and associated foundation... But I didn't know SE was then going to fill the cavity with a big poured padstone... I'd have moved inner wall back by 50mm if it would have allowed steel to sit on it without...