Search results

Ha, I forgot this is a place for commercial advice ;)

This site is never short of sarcasm :LOL:

Thanks everyone for the response. What were those that managed to screw through using the Tek screws beams made of wood?! I'm drilling with a small cobalt drill bit 3mm applying pressure not getting anywhere - web is iirc 7mm thick.

Cheers, I have the tech screws already but need to do the drilling first, which is proving very difficult. I can go down this route, but is is allowed regs and everything?

Cheers Deluks, I tried drilling a small pilot hole maybe 3mm, it's taking a long time and hardly making a dent - this is a standard handheld drill working slowly using lubricant, is there any other faster alternatives?

Hi all, I need to fix fireboard around the steel beam, first of all I need to attach noggins. I've been told from various tradesman that were doing other jobs in the property at the time they mechanically fix noggins however another said to just to knock them in and not attach to the steel...

Hi all, My return brick works is slim up to my bi fold to prevent a step in. This proves a little difficult there is a wind post in the corner. How would i insulate this void but for then plasterboard to be dot and dab over the top. There is nothing for the plasterboard to hang onto. I can...

Hi, I'm wanting to fit plaster in the wall lights, before dot and dabbing. These require some space behind the 12.5mm plasterboard, essentially and for ease the removal of a whole brick. I'm looking at x4 plaster in lights, however one of them would be right over the middle of a steel beam -...

Cheers cdbe puts my mind at ease. If anyone has tips to dot and dab please let me know.

Hi, I'm new to dot and dabbing and admittedly struggling, I've only accomplished three boards and cannot seem to get them perfect, will the skim coat go over these boards or will they require correcting? There is a couple of mm high and low points between them.. Thanks

Srsly two screws is enough here? I woudn't have thought that was the case? Is it only holding a brick up as the insert could do that, what would a house builder do with the electrical/gas meter cut outs?

Thanks Woody - just checking we are talking with a steel plate right?

Thanks Woody, this is what I was thinking. Although it's unclear how they fit the meter boxes? I'm looking to use a angled steel like this...

Thanks - that is essentially what I've done but had this exact realisation, that the wool will just soak up the screed. I'll look into something thicker then and possibly create a channel into the concrete to ensure thicker insulation.

Well, the box being inserted essentially provides support for a half falling brick but it's more to do with the bearing than anything is my concern.

Not a wind up - How am I suppose to know if insulation is required or not, it seems some people do and others don't/ Just wondering what is best practice for this type of thing. The pipe is not underfloor heating, it's to a radiator.

Please provide a little more context are the very least?

Thanks noseall - what is let's say the maximum I could go to before needing a lintel?

Hi, I'm running 15mm PEX pipe under the screed circa 35-40mm in depth, the pipes are laid on a concrete sub base that has 150mm insulation in. My question is what is the best insulation to wrap the pipes in? I'm currently using wool, but is there anything with more performance? Should it even...

Something like this: https://www.mlaccessories.co.uk/products/4382281/datasheet.html Thoughts on them, are they easy to fit etc?