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Dimmers buzz and cause lights to flicker if the load is too small. You could try increasing the wattage of the lamps (although not enough to exceed the rating of the dimmer). plug - take the boxing gloves off when you're typing

No - Not permissible ... but it will work

The lamps you refer to have no polarity and therefore it doesn't matter which way you insert them. By doing what I say in my last message it will define whether the prob is with the 2 way switched lighting circuit or with the supply to it.

Check all 3 again with all cables apart from the incoming lighting circuit supply disconnected at the ceiling rose. If still the same then you're tracing the supply cable back along its circuit and measuring to find the fault.

At the ceiling rose ... What is the measured voltage between the permanent live and neutral? What is the measured voltage between the permanent live and earth? What is the measured voltage between the neutral and earth?

Just so we're clear on this ... You have a 32A 30mA RCD which tripped to disconnect the ring main supplying a socket for your fridge Also your main isolator (or partial protection for the above RCD) at your c/u is a 80A 30mA RCD. Do a test for us ... 1. turn OFF the 32A RCD and check...

There are various reasons why it could trip - usually an overcurrent fault. But not to complicate matters, can you tell me the mcb current rating (AMPS) and the fridge rating (WATTS, W or kW). How old is the fridge?

Is there a separate pump at the boiler? Are you running the boiler supply cable outdoors / underground?

As above only you're looking for the voltage on the multimeter which the transformer supplies. Cheers securespark

Check meter with known supply Check circuit to be isolated with meter between live & neutral, live & earth and neutral & earth Isolate the circuit, fit lock to isolation point (and retain key) Hand a 'Work in Progress' sign at the isolation point Check circuit has been isolated with meter...

Run a single earth cable from the consumer unit. Sounds like you're due a rewire.

Initially I'd disconnect the cables at the fist light (I assume you have one cable incoming and one outgoing there) and reconnect them making sure you aren't tightening onto the cable insulation instead of the conductor. Do the same thing at the second light if this still doesn't cure it...

FWL - good point but I'm sure I've read that when installing fluorescent lighting circuits its best to use type C. Say your installing a socket in your garage for use with general arc or mig welding equipment. What MCB type would you advise.

On the MCB thread - if you have a 10A type b (or 2) MCB you could change it to a 10A type c or d.

You're not meant to ... Granted, if this is all done in 1mm flex then it could be classed as a portable appliance but its not ideal as your light fittings will be fixed equipment. If your going to do it then - use the flex to connect from the plug top to a fused spur unit (gland in and...

I'm with dingbats suggestion. I'd come off the existing lighting circuit as only one conductor should be terminated to a protective device in the distribution board. The only time there should be two conductors is in a ring main for sockets. This insures that sound connections are made to the...

ginster If your going to go down that route then I wouldn't bother changing the cooker switch as the fan won't use much power. Come off the live side of the cooker switch (meaning you can have the fan on without the cooker being on) in a radial circuit using the same size of cable as the...

breezer - do they work by sensing the path to earth through the person touching it?

These come in standard sizes from an electrical wholesaler. The type I assume you'll need are single or double recessed metal (for block walls) or moulded plastic (for stud walls - they sandwich the stud wall between the back box and light switch / socket).

Your pic didn't display on my system but I guess I know what you mean. Don't do option 1 because the terminations won't be sound and the protection back at the dist bd will be too great. Option 3 or 4 is best I assume the supply to the double socket is part of a ring main wired in 2.5mm...