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It looks like a C P Hart to me. Last cartridge of theirs I changed was about £400.

Your link just brought me back to this thread. Was that a mistake? It means linking the pump to a permanent live as opposed to a live that runs through a sensor. Therefore if the pump runs on the permanent live it is the sensor that is faulty. If it doesn't run then the pump is faulty. If...

More likely to be the MT10 mechanical timer. They break all the time. If removed the boiler will be on constantly. The timer must be stuck internally in the on position.

It's difficult without looking at the boiler but sounds like it could be a partially blocked plate heat exchanger. This type of blockage will cause the boiler to get up to temperature too quickly which will cut out the burner until it cools and will then fire up again. This causes the water to...

Generally you want to cut the 4" pipe that is coming through the wall to be flush with the outside wall. This way the fitting will sit in the wall a bit but should be the perfect distance for clipping the vent.

If the boiler is in the loft is there not a drain point within the boiler or just below it. Will save a lot of time if you don't have to drain everything. Alternatively only drain from the radiator till boiler is empty. As you undo the AAV and it allows air in the boiler will start to drain any...

It's seems a bit odd that you have a 3-port valve yet are unable to control heating and hot water separately. It may just be a case of replacing the programmer and changing the wiring. Is your programmer located near to the three port valve? Do you have a cylinder thermostat and a central...

If it has split the water from both tanks will merge and as a result find it's own level which will cause the smaller tank, the F&E tank, to overflow. Keep an eye on it. This will definitely happen if the coil has split.

Air will come out of the water connection to vessel as you pump initially. I remember thinking one had split due to this but eventually it held the pressure. Make sure before u throw away. Not sure with ur boiler but some are over £100.

A W-Plan system is usually just Y-Plan with hot water priority. There's nothing wrong with it that type of system unless you have high hot water demand as the central heating will suffer a bit. Was there any reason you had a W-Plan system installed? I suppose it could be circulating by gravity...

Is there a combi boiler there? It is probably the old rising main and if the tanks have come out or are disconnected then it is highly possible that the pipe is just a dead leg as you have said. If there are tanks in use is it possible that the lead pipe is the rising main feeding them.

If it's simple enough to shut off both the hot and cold water supplying the taps then I would charge £75 + vat.

In that case I take back the dig about saving a few quid. The hepvo fitted horizontally would work but will raise the waste connection for the hose by an inch maybe two.

I've not seen one either. Is there any way of raising the machine a few inches. If so I would elbow straight out of the floor with a street elbow aka a male and female elbow to keep it as low down as poss and fit a hepvo waterless trap horizontally with a spigot on the end for the hose so it's...

Could be a fault with the pressure reducing valve. You will need a G3 qualified plumber to work on unvented systems to take a look to diagnose and repair.

You may get some indication of whether it's connected or not by looking at your gas meter. It won't be definitive and you will still need a registered gas fitter to check properly but may give you some hope that it won't be a costly job. Is the outlet from you gas meter in copper or barrel pipe...

It's two channel as it has two outputs. Usually one is for hot water and the other is heating. Terminals 3 and 4 on the timer are the outputs for the separate channels. Presumably if this timer only controls the heating of the swimming pool can you not run it all off one channel, the channel...

Isn't that a two channel programmer? If so have you tried switching the other channel?

If the light is on on the timer indicating it should be live but there is no live being output from timer to pump then the relay within the timer isn't working and the timer will need to be replaced.

Some new builds have thermostatic mixing valves installed which premix the hot and cold to a set temperature before coming out of the hot tap. It may well be under the bath. It can be easily adjusted if this is the case which it sounds like it may well be.