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Try turning all other rads off except the one that isn't working and leaving it like this for a while not just till it gets hot and it should eventually push all of the air out of the pipework and into the radiator. I wouldn't worry about balancing until the airlock has been sorted.

Ring caple

Whatever you decide to do make sure you cap off all the holes. A block of flats I work in with a communal heating system had real problems as one nob got his old cast iron rads sand blasted. They ended up full of sand and has caused major circulation problems within flats other than his own.

If you have a spare room that you don't use much and dont need to heat you can just drain some water out of the radiator and the air gap left in the top of the radiator will take up the expansion of the water when heated. I know it's not really a permanent solution but I did this for a friend of...

If you find the boiler is staying on for a long time to satisfy the hall thermostat after the TRVs have been satisfied then you turn the hall thermostat down till you find the point where it stays on long enough to satisfy all TRVs and shortly after the interlock will kick in. I don't really see...

[/url] + 1 That's what I do in this situation as you don't need the backplate elbow you just bring the pipe straight out 150mm apart.

I would get your plumber to do it if I were you. I don't like electricians touching any part of a heating system I've installed. They generally don't understand heating systems. At least that's my experience with them.

Have you always had the water hammer or could be something as simple as a ball valve washer needing to be replaced?

Just get an electric over sink water heater like the triton t30. They're only cheap to buy and easy to install and although electric is more expensive I shouldn't think it would matter if you're only going to be using it every now and then.

Like most radiators it has a 1/2" female connection. The brass nut and tail currently connected will need to be removed and most valves will fit.

Not sure if you can get a plug for it. Certainly you can get caps which would mean exposing the pipe and cutting it lower as the cap will add to the height.

It's all controlled from the four buttons beneath the display. What did you want to do?

If you've replaced the MV head and it works intermittently I would be looking at the programmer/timer or the heating thermostat. It sounds like one of the relays is on the way out. Is your thermostat wireless? If not it's probably the programmer. If it is it could be either. You really need...

As said just bung the outlet from inside the tank, drain what's in the pipe and replace the gate valve. Failing that, why can't you drain the tank?

Can't you get swan necked pan connectors designed for just that issue. It bends back on itself before dropping vertically down. It won't go as far back as a pan with a downward spigot but it will be better than a normal 90 then you just have to board the wall out a bit to meet the cistern for...

I use a chisel. But usually just a decent sized flat head in just one of the slots as it won't reach all the way across will still get enough turning force to tighten it.

If it looks heavy, it probably is. What did you think would happen? At least you can clean the dust off the skirting. Every cloud, eh.

The EA fault will need diagnosing in the presence of the boiler. The symbol it came up with when you reset it is just a cycle the boiler goes through on first start up after having had the power to the boiler turned off or after a reset. It is just filling the condense trap and is perfectly normal.

With the bleed screw tightened.

I think you need a new engineer not just a part changer as we call someone that just changes parts that don't need changing as he doesn't know what he's doing. How much has that cost you?