Search results

Is your cylinder thermostat located far enough down the cylinder. It needs to be between about 2/3s and 3/4s of the down from the top of the cylinder. Or about halfway between the flow and return to the coil. If the stat is much higher than this you won't be getting a full cylinder of hot water...

Bear in mind if you fit a twin, and this is why most people only pump the shower, every time you flush the toilet it will run the pump as the cistern refills. Even at 2am. Which can be annoying to say the least as they are noisy.

Personally I'd fit a twin pump. But that's up to you. You'll need to do a small amount of adjustment to the pipework and you'll need a 22mm pipeslice to cut the pipe. If you're not able to solder pipes you'll need to use compression fittings which will require an adjustable spanner and a pair of...

If you look at your photo labelled boilerleft the pipe labelled expansion tank is the hot water outlet. It tees into a pipe at the back of the cupboard and the part that goes up into the loft is the vent/expansion pipe and where it goes downwards it is going to all of your taps to supply hot...

Having a quick look you've got it all wrong. The pipe you've labelled as hot water outlet is actually the flow from the boiler to the coil in the cylinder. The hot water outlet will be the pipe that comes out of the very top of the cylinder. I assume the pump is for the hot water at all of the...

In that case I would use a 90 coming off the saniflo, although 45s would be better, but being so close to the pump it should be ok. Then a 90 to the horizontal and then again 45s would be preferable on the horizontal run but as by this point you are relying on gravity then as long as there is...

More info would be helpful. Really depends where you intend to use the elbow. If it is at the very top of a vertical run to then run the pipe horizontally that will be fine. If you intend to continue vertically after the elbow then I would recommend using the 45s.

That wireless thermostat can be used to control your heating or you could fit a non programmable wireless thermostat as you already have a timer. I think the honeywell one is the DT92E. I assume the cylinder has a thermostat. It will be located on the cylinder about two thirds of the way down.

That's what I would normally do. Bit of 12mm ply will be perfect and you can even fill any gaps round it and paint it if you want to go all out. I would definitely use one piece of ply screwed to two or more uprights. When you find the uprights cut the plasterboard so it is still supported by...

+1

I'd go for the vaillant personally. I fit mostly vaillants as I find them to be well made and as reliable if no more than the others. Comes with a 7 year warranty if fitted by an approved installer or 5 as standard.

Whilst running the hot tap if you touch the pipe that connects under the boiler to the left hand side. There is six copper pipes connecting to the boiler. The far left is the flow to the radiators. If this is passing heated water down it whilst you have the hot tap running the you do have a...

The u bend or trap creates a break in the air rising up from the sewers through the pipes and into your kitchen. It's necessary.

A large pair of grips but often hand tight is sufficient.

Ideally a small square of thinnish ply screwed to the wooden uprights that will be hidden by the radiator but big enough that it covers the area of both brackets. This is probably the easiest way. Probably easier to drain rad and take it off than rotate forward on its tails as suggested. Just...

With great difficulty.

Open the big screw head on the front with a large flat screwdriver. Pop a towel underneath it while you do it. With pump running you should see it spinning. If not use the screwdriver to try to free it.

Shut all other radiators off so the full flow from the pump is directed to that radiator. If is still doesn't get hot then there's either a blockage or it's been piped up wrong.

You don't let them get away with anything do you mate. You do make me chuckle dan.

Usually the boiler should fire up without the hot water on just when there is a demand for heating. If the motorised valve is manually open however you will need the hot water on to fire the boiler. Manually opening the valve will then allow heated water to you radiators. You should get it...