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Make sure the price includes the flue The £1100 price is spot on for boiler/flue/programmer As said buying on internet can be more trouble than the little extra it costs for the installer to get it If he supplies it ,its his hassle

As its a new problem it sounds like a flow problem Could be any number of things but most likely sludge :( If sludge suspected, it might be worth getting some Kamco Hyperflush or Sentinel (x400?)please correct me if wrong! Put it in the system and run for a week then drain heating to...

Seen it done but they really are heavy when full If it can be mounted on some joists that rest on a proper brick wall then ok but wouldnt recommend just on normal ceiling sized joists

"One" piece reducers for compression They actually work really well,I carry a few on my van and have never had one leak :)

Dont go over the top when tightening,10 mm copper is quite soft When they "break" as said they dont need much more tightening

Those are reducers that sit in place of a normal 15mm olive make sure pipe is right in there and do up with a spanner

The magnetic magnaclean unit from Kamco is the biz Collects all the metal sludge so you can show the customer what has come out So far most collected on a 15 rad house....1 stone in weight of metallic sludge Obviously lots more non metallic crud gets washed down the drain No I dont...

A negative head pump will cure the height problem but costs 2x as much,that is if you are having a shower in the loft :)

Denso tape you mean :) Sticky as f*** and expensive Would use for gas but not necessary for hot/cold

Protect the pipes with celefelt or sticky tape before plastering Insulation tape works ok

Because most of the problems lie in the pipework ,not the radiators :)

But if the shower outlet(head) is higher than the water in the tank it will not switch the pump on,hence the need for negative head pumps :)

No the stopcock wont turn off the water (as such) You could fit reducing olives into the radiator valves as this is easy to solve the size problem Im a bit worried also that you dont know how to turn off the water,Its not straight forward There are a few different systems you may...

Fit the machine as in the instructions Turn it on with all rads fully open Flush for 10 mins with water only,this way if something is about to go it wont waste costly chemicals,or melt the carpet :) Put the chemical in ,run for 10 mins to let it get to all the rads Shut all the rads off...

There are two common types of valve One has two identical sized nuts (same size as normal 15mm compression) The other has a nut the same size as above,and one bigger nut that joins to the bit you screw into the radiator Yours looks like the latter type,common part obtained any plumbers...

Also some have a restrictor that goes inline at the shower for the cold,to restrict cold flow

Ive had the same fault as gasmick2 The restrictor was dodgy in the "vacuum" tubes Cleaned it out and has been fine since

"If you prefer a more powerful shower, simply choose a higher kilowatt rating for a greater flow rate" You must make sure the cable is able to handle a higher wattage shower...unless you want to melt it

Dont know much about combis but sounds like a diverter valve not working properly Please correct me if Im wrong :) Boiler make/model may be useful ?

What size is the pipe that comes out of the floor?