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Looks like a standard (older)style rad valve thats just goldie Just a case of whether the pipe going into the bottom of the valve is 15mm/22mm or something else

If it is full of air ,remember to recharge the system pressure once bled If no air,check lockshield valve is open The TRV ...you can remove the head . If it has a pin sticking up,make sure when you press on it(usually with something hard),that it moves down and returns up If it does not...

What they are trying to say is WHY do you need to increase the pressure and where is more pressure needed? A bit more information would be very helpful :)

Where in the house is the shower in relation to the loft tanks ie its not in a loft conversion ? Could just be an airlock where the water has been disturbed

Dont skimp on the boiler If you want a decent flow you will be better off getting a boiler with a higher domestic hot water flow rate You also need to check your mains pressure is 3 bar! 10" is just a bit greedy isnt it :)

Its either a flow problem from poor balancing or its a sludge problem Is the lockshield valve fully open? (thats the end you dont normally touch by the way)

Some showers come with a little flow restrictor that fits at the shower end of the pipe/fitting and reduces the cold flow Is there any crud/scale in the hot inlet? i have seen this b4

If its old inch pipe,28mm will normally be fine but you will need to clean the old pipe very well to allow the fittings to attach,sometimes it needs a rub with emery cloth/sand paper to reduce the size enough

If you should connect to the cast iron ,you may need to chain drill it to create the hole .Use a strap and boss ,using a good amount of silicone sealant to seal it I have done it as a last resort and it works fine

Could be its not shutting off, The programmer should tell it to close had one recently that had a cone shaped piece of crud stuck in the pipeholding it open If system is sludgy it can build up and stop it seating correctly or it could just be worn

Yes it sounds like the pressure vessel needs re-presurizing,car valve,foot pump,pump up to pressure indicated on the unit Seen an ajs heating b4 , bucks herts area

If its a big bath a bigger pump would be better I had a Stuart Turner showermate (1.4bar) in my standard bath for 7 yrs no probs but a ST Monsoon is better for baths in my experience. Just a thought..there isnt any debis in the end of the tap? Possibly caught behind the flow director/filter...

You did run a seperate cold feed directly from the tank to the pump? And didnt tee off an existing cold or cold feed to cylinder :( Does the ballvalve keep the water level fairly level when the shower running ? If it dosn`t it may be not enough head of water to supply the pump when the...

Bump ! Customer hastling me now :(

If you can match one to fit..ie same as old tap Usually held in with a small screw or allen bolt in the top/back of the main body

It was in a £600k 2 bed flat and was a very intricate moulding, not just curved ..that was all :)

Sounds like one of those.. Since you replaced my taps the door wont shut properly :) Seriously, as said make sure gate valve (cold feed to cylinder) is on properly.

Relacement ceramic disc cartridges are handed for hot or cold Some turn on anti-clock Some turn on Clockwise Each tap will have ONE of each. Sounds like the same ones have been fitted to both hot and cold Hope that helps

I would just get a new softener. That will be £100 at least to tell you its faulty My Mc250 worked for 4 years and then just kept going wrong In the end a part snapped off the head somehow. I have fitted quite a few of them and lots seem to go wrong for no reason. Not going to fit another...

Done lots with outlet in plastic They come with pushfit connections anyway The top of the rail is in copper and may need to be earth bonded?