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If the valve isnt open on fill up it wont fill all the system.

Pump the best place as most flow. Will connect instead of a radiator though.

If a rad has recently been changed there could have still been some air in the system from when this procedure was carried out.

As it stops after a few seconds,is it just the pressure valve reaching pressure? This sounds a bit like bus doors :) and tapers off till silent,lasting no more than about 10 seconds

It could be the pressure relief valve,however if it isnt always leaking from discharge pipe it could be an expansion problem Has the expansion vessel got the correct pressure in it when the heating pressure is released.Cant think what you call this pressure basically the vessel is pre-charged...

These were fixed by resoldering the 6 connections under the board...but you state these look ok What i noticed on the ones i`ve done was a hairline crack around some of these solder "blobs" . they are not very obvious cracks,a magnafine glass would help. I have also fixed a couple and put them...

600mm and 1200mm is what i carry. got a pocket 10 incher too :)

I gave my Bosch SDS drill hell for 5 years till the SDS part stopped working. I bought another Bosch as its replacement.....enough said :) They are for sale under £100 these days

Hello , I have a feather edge style fence (close board) which has not been stained yet Its been in for 4 yrs . Can anyone recommend a CLEAR coating that can be applied ? Thanks, Tim

If the fan motor has gone no amount of WD40 will help :( Should really be done by a heating engineer but we are on a Diy site !

You will need a filling loop to pressurise the system as this too seems to have been omitted :(

Basically you need to cap off .. The vent pipe (the one that goes over the top of the tank and in) The cold feed to CH that comes from the lower part of the tank(which may join the vent at some point) The main feed to the F&E (little tank) ball valve. The chap who fitted it all should do it...

You took the pcb out to look at the solder joins right? I carry a couple of these boards ,that had this fault,that i have fixed so it must be a fairly common thing. You have checked the fuse on the pcb ? Could you post the pcb part number ? just to see which one it is,thanks

Any chance of a picture? Sounds like a leak but cant picture this layout

The over flow pipe must come out near the top. Any other pipes in the tank must be.. 1. The main feed TO the tank 2. A feed from the tank to the water system Ie cold and hot taps .

Use a foam lagging or armourflex where the pipe is showing and preferably a few inches under ground just in case. Underground it should be ok,dig as low as you can be bothered to. I`d say a coulpe of feet down if likely to be dug near (ie flowerbed)

When i said reset i meant to turn the programmer off then on again :) If the fan comes on but nowt else does look like a pressure fault id say. Although if its testing for pressure in the case ,wont it usually turn the fan off after its done its failed sequence?

The buzzing...could it be the noise of sparks trying to make a contact? I did have one that was arcing and making a buzzing sound.just a thought.

If its adjustable put the pump on full (you probably already done this) You can get 2 types of X400..in a bottle or in a tube that goes in a "silicone" gun. The gun one can be put in a rad bleed The bottle can also be put in same area if newish style rad if you isolate the rad and drain some...

My 618i is heat only boiler ie not a combi :) Its the 800 series that are combis