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Yes - strangely, with CH and HW off, I get a 250V current between earth and the orange wires from the valves. How can that be?

So, I should test the power to the valve with CH on. If there's power, I can assume the valve is faulty and replace it - correct? Can the valve be replaced without having to drain the system?

We don't actually have a room stat, unless it's very well hidden! Is that unusual? Is there not a thermostat in the boiler or switches themselves, that needs to open before any part of the CH will do it's job? If the valve/switch is knackered, should the pump still start when I turn on CH...

Thanks Chris, that's very helpful. When I switch the CH on via the timer, should power always get to the valve/microswitch? Isn't there a thermostat in the circuit?

Thanks. Even if the CH valve is kaput, shouldn't switching it to manual at lease get the boiler going? Is the motor part of the valve?

No joy I'm afraid. There was a slight gurgling noise when I switched the valve, but the boiler doesn't fire. There's some sort of junction/control box on the floor of the airing cupboard, looks a bit battered - any chance it could be malfunctioning?

Ok, think I'm with you. In the airing cupboard, next to the cylinder and pump, there are two boxes, both branded "Honeywell" with the code "V4043H1056". I guess they've got two "ports" as there's a pipe going in and out of each. They've got a switch on the top with two positions: "man...

Urm... Timer is a Potterton EP 2000. Not sure on valves and ports, this is my first CH system! The boiler's got a dial on the front: OFF-1-2-3-4-5-6. Tried cranking this up from 5 to 6, with no joy. We don't have a room/wall thermostat. Cheers, Rob

Hi all, Thanks in advance for any pointers on this. Here's the prob: - If I turn the CH on without the HW, nothing happens, i.e. the boiler doesn't fire, and the rads stay stone cold. - If I turn on the CH with the HW, the upstairs rads get warm, one even gets quite hot, and all but...