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If you have hot water up to the valve and you have bled the rad then I would guess the valve is the problem. I have never used the combined valves before but I presume there are 2 adjusters one for flow and one return - are these opened correctly? If the valve hadn't been touched for a while...

I guess you could build it with timber in much the same way as a studded wall. This could be covered with WBP ply and tiled onto. The trouble with wood is that it will shrink and expand which may cause cracks if you tile it so a flexi additive to your tile cement would be a good idea. Or you...

Usually the pressure is set by adding water via the filling loop - up to the spec for the boiler 1-1.5 bar usually. Then as the water heats up the pressure will increase slightly. Is you boiler pushing water through the overflow? When the boiler pressure gets too much it should vent through...

I agree with the above a proper T would be better. You could turn off the water and dismantle the clamp over the pipe and make sure nothing was blocking the quite small hole that is made in the pipe when these things are fitted (maybe limescale). While apart try blowing air back through the...

If it is TAPS - is the "bendy bit" ribbed? If so then it sounds like someone has used bendy pipe to make a bend rather than elbows. There is no reason I can think of that would mean you cannot replace these with elbows or whatever fitting you need to get where you want to get.

You could use some fine surface filler and skim a bit into the gaps with a filling knife. try to finish it level with the paper to avoid sanding as this will obviously damage the paper - also try not to overwork the filler as it will wet the paper and also damage the surface. The first...

I think I have seen a dimmer that stated it could be wired as an intermediate switch. Perhaps the only advantage would be in being able to position the switch in any of the 3 positions and not just in place of a 2 way - an advantage if dealing with existing wiring perhaps.

Yes, I am sure you can tile over existing tiles providing they are well fixed. Just give them a really good clean to make sure the adhesive will stick. The only areas to be careful of are where the edges of the tiles can be seen - you will obviusly see 2 thicknessess instead of 1 - you should be...

You may be able to get surface mounted downlighters - although a bit bulkier than a flush fitting version they would be easier to fit than a new ceiling.

I think if you are running a cable to an outbuilding (presumably not connected to the house) you need a seperate fusebox in the outbuilding. I'm sure someone will give further details or consult IEE regs. With the combi problem - fix the leak you have found and see what happens. Is the boiler...

When a bulb blows it can often trip the MCB. If they are blowing regularly there is obviously something wrong - are they installed exactly as the instructions state with all relevant clearances (above and below). They do get quite hot! Have you replaced the correct type of bulb? GU10 and GZ10...

In the UK it is sometimes possible to find a range of tiles that have bull noses and also bull noses on 2 sides but they are only on limited ranges of tiles. As for a curve - this could be tricky - I have never seen a curved tile, I guess there are too many permutations of curve shape for them...

Can you lift any boards from elsewhere in the house to use? They will probably be the same type colour/width etc - then fill the hole you have made with new boards. It may be a pain but it is probably your best bet for a match.

I am not a plumber and I do not know the layout of your boiler but I would think you could either drain the system via a drain on the CH circuit of the boiler or by disconnecting one of the rad valves on the lowest radiator - although this would be a bit messy as you cannot attach a pipe...

So, if you are extending the CH and DHW downstairs from the combi boiler you will not need the cylinder at all as a combi doesn't store hot water. If the plumbers disconnect the cylinder from the water supply when fixing the combi pipework it should be a fairly simple unbolt job to remove the...

If the flow rates are about the same then it sounds like it should work but it may be worth getting a larger boiler as if hot water is used elsewhere in the house at the same time as the shower the pressure will drop. Also, the figures quoted will probably be under optimum conditions. As I said...

A builder mate of mine always conceals the pipework in the walls even on new builds so it must be OK with the building inspector - he usually uses 10mm plastic to the rads that require no joints to be buried as the pipes can be cabled in one length. I think some plumbers don't like to do this...

It is worth checking the flow rate needed for the shower with the manufacturer and compare this to the boiler spec. Then add in a bit of slack as the flow rate at a given temperature will drop in winter when the water is colder coming into the boiler. If the shower is the one with side jets I...

Are you positive that a CORGI registered plumber cannot move the meter - particularly as it sounds like is is just a case of turning the meter through 180 degrees. If not then it does seem like you are at the mercy of Transco! I had similar experience with moving electric meter. I think they...

I think it will depend on what is causing the damp in the first place - I wouldn't imagine it will cure it though. Check the outside of the building for leaking gutters, damp course being breached etc.