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Personally it depends upon the type of hood being installed, if its a chimney style hood i prefer to just use a JB inside the chimney housing, or if its a normal under unit/wall mount type i install a socket in an adjacent cupboard or on the wall next to the extractor. The fusing down comes...

Taylor , try looking again at the wiring set up, All the outlets and the spur unit are on the RING, Their is no spurs off of any of them. The last spur unit has a load connected to it hence the three cables. To feed your cooker hood you can spur off of any of the sockets or extend the ring...

Lighting circuits are normally wired as a radial and so a return leg is not required. Nick

Yep it sure looks like it . In my oppinion drilling the rest of the metal out for that downlight will have no bearing on its functionality. One final thing to check before drilling it out is make sure there is no other structura above it that will get in the way of the downlights. Try using a...

Provided it IS gypframe , then its no big problem drilling through it , However I am a bit dubious as i have not seen it with a perforated edge, and the bottom does not look the same as the flange side, so i am not 100% convinced that it is gypframe. what does the other hole look like ? it...

Looks like a gypframe top hat profile. Can you get your fingers over the edge of the metal and see if it drops down to the plasterboard level ? Does it all look like its one part , not two different parts joined together. Is it made of thin tin all over or is the left side of it made of...

Can you post some pictures and some of the more helpful members will sureley be able to help you , or go to another forum perhaps try searching for ultimate handyman they are a lot friendlier there :D :D :D Nick

The job is not complicated mate, all you need to do is to reverse what you have done so far and then simply mount a single surface box on which to mount your timeswitch then take the flex to the immersion element in and out of the box and conect as you have been told . If you have any doubts...

Just one thing is worrying me, Have you broken the ring main up somewhere then ? as if you have isolated the faulty leg of the ring at the board then without breaking the ring apart at another point you have effectiveley go two radials from one MCB if by simply removing one leg from the DB ...

You say you have unplugged everything from the circuit, but have you turned everything off ?? Do you have any built in appliances on the circuit in question IE fan oven ???? Make sure EVERYTHING is unpliugged or turned off and try again. Could ba a faulty MCB but doubtful, More...

The company i used to work for for ten years till i moved up north are based in guildford and i would not hesitate to recommend them to anyone, they are not a huge company and it is run by two partners who are very conscientious. NICEIC registered also. search for designer electrical Ltd in...

I am from staffordshire if you dont get anyone closer volunteering i would be happy to have a look for you . Nick

You need all wires to make this work, as said before the two terminals with TWO cables in each will be the COMMON, ie the power in and out of the switches. The other SINGLE cables in each switch are the Switched Lives and they go to the lights. YOU MUST USE ALL 5 CABLES OR ELSE IT WILL STOP...

My point exactly, you have advised without gaining the facts first, besides which it would likely blow the fuse/MCB and or possibly damage the timer . Nick

How do you know Owain that the live should be linked between two terminals??? if there is a live and neutral going in and then a live and neutral going out there is the possibility that the black and red going out are infact a live and an unmarked switched live. By teling him to link them...

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Common fault with 500W Halogens is the pins that press into the end of the lamps arc and oxidise making effectively an insulator between the lamp and the lampholder. Turn off the power to the units and wipe over the protruding brass pins at the end of the lampholders with some wet and dry...

Yes thats fine an offcut of cable between the two terminals will do the trick. with the existing feed left in the existing terminal to loop the power to the other terminal . Power it up and see what happens. Nick

You did read the part in the instructions that says leave the unit powered up for 5 minutes then press the reset button and then leave powered up for a further 45-60 minutes to charge the internal battery up . Try that and then see what happens Nick

I would not worry about changing that switch, I would however be very concerned about the age of your electrical installation and the likeleyhood of a rewire being necessary. Can you post a picture of your fusebox and we can tell you if there is any more cause for concern. You probably could...