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Tony, I did the bucket test if you read my earlier post... ok i didn't provide figures but its about 9 litres per minute... and I am aware that reducing the flow at the tap does increase the temperature.... thing is i know enough about this boiler to know that there's a problem. Over a period of...

I appreciate what your saying and yes its true what you say about getting a heating engineer. In my defence, when i took the diverter valve off it showed signs of corrosion underneath where it had leaked through the exit point of the pin that goes to the microswitches. The HEX was full of Muck...

I understand what your saying but time isn't a luxury in my house... 2 kids and a wife to keep warm and hot watered. I don't like rushing through anything like this but sometimes you just need to press on and change parts that could be causing the problems to get the job done. I know this boiler...

i completely agree...I still need to change the water section...i'm awaiting a part. I know i should try cleaning it first but to be honest I'm too darn lazy!! I'll come back as soon as I've done that. I'll go back and check everything again... i might even take the HEX off to see if anything...

Funny that cos while i was scratching my head I did check that earlier but no heat is generated in the flow pipe at the boiler going to the rads when the HW is flowing

The lights are working fine and i gave gasguru basic figures on fireing boiler from cold and says they are sufficient....thanks for that. I'm stil stumped on lukewarm water problem. Changed HEX and Diverter valve. But i do have problems with water section pin getting jammed...I think i'll change...

Ok then thanks... I changed the diverter valve yesterday so it cant be that. And I've changed the HEX a week ago. So i'm back to the same problem with lukewarm/tepid water from hot tap. Is there anything in the water section/servo that could effect the flow of water apart from too much water...

Hi again... I measured the gas consumption using my meter.... It took 38 seconds for a complete turn on the right hand needle of the meter when the boiler was cold and turned on hot taps.... Is this the correct rating...thanks

No... The pin just stays stationary Actually you can tell there's a problem because if i disengage the return spring and manually push the arm against the micro switch the tone of the flowing water through the boiler sounds wrong. Best way to describe it is the sound you get when water has...

Thanks agian... I did manage to feel behind the arm of the servo and i can move the pin out of its slot but it feels like whatever it rests on inside the water section is jammed because there's no movemnet up or down other than the movement of the pin when it moves off whatever its resting on...

Yeah...I've seen this before...thanks again. So ths valve is servicable then? Is there anything in there that I should be looking for in terms of wear and tear? I was looking at the pipe loom that goes in and out of it and wondering what else it does apart from detecting the cold water flow?

Thanks for that.... I just noticed the servo arm is not moving towards microswitch anymore... it was doing this intermitently before but very very infrequently...i was meaning to replace this some time ago...thing is now its not triping in the hot water so i think i need to change this before...

I didn't come back to this thread for a couple of days and missed the advice on checking the gas pressure. I'm no corgi but is there a simple test i can do with my gas meter to check consumption thus getting an idea if its gas pressure problem? I'm wondering if it could be the servo or water...

I didn't come back to this thread for a couple of days and missed the advice on checking the gas pressure. I'm no corgi but is there a simple test i can do with my gas meter to check consumption thus getting an idea if its gas pressure problem? I'm wondering if it could be the servo or water...

I did have a powerflush about 3 years ago.... saying that i have drained the system a few times due to fitting new rads... i know several drian downs can cause build up of muck again... are you saying just replace the diverter valve and not bother with cleaning or replacing bits inside then?

The Diverter was replaced 6 years ago... could it be that in needs cleaning maybe?

Just replaced DHW heat exchanger thinking my old problem is back! The hot water basicly was getting cooler and cooler. Usually in the past this meant DHW heat ex. was getting debris in it. So instead of cleaning the old one my thinking was to buy a second one and keep a clean one on stand-by...