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Yes

No

Flow rate can't be determined by pressure only. There are other factors to consider, most importantly pipe size, number of fittings used, restrictive valves and filters. The shower valve will be giving you its capabilities operating at maximum potential.

1.6 bar really is not a lot of pressure. Really you need to do 3 things to achieve a 'power shower' 1. Upgrade all pipework from pump to 22mm 2. Fit a shower valve with 22mm connections 3. Fit at least a 3 bar pump, if not 4 bar I don't know if you can hold your plumber responsible for...

Why not pay the bloke any more?

What made you go for a 1.6 bar pump? What pressure and pipework size does the shower you've fitted require? Did you discuss with the plumber what pressure and flow rate you wanted to achieve?

Take the tail out of the rad and take it to plumbers merchant to offer up to fittings. Once you have what you need, reattach it to rad valve

Re drill some new fixing holes in the bracket and use them to put new screws through.

I have a guy who works for me. 6 years experience, Gas safe registered (I paid for registration and annual fee), I pay his travel, he works on site every day, very few callouts and he is on £30k per year. I think this is a lot more realistic a salary.

Expansion of water in the system. Totally normal

Get a drill, put a drill bit in it and drill through the screw

Just crack a compression nut somewhere and wet vac it out. There won't be that much water if it's just doing a coil. Don't forget to isolate supply to F&E tank.

Well it is

I agree with Shray. A thorough Powerflush will exceed the cost of 4 new rads and it does sound as if they are beyond repair. You can't expect your plumber to pay for the new rads as it's not his fault that they are in this state, however he should be advising you of potential remedies and...

To be honest, I don't think looking for bent pipes is the way forward. It seems that heat is getting to the rads but the fact that the heat is patchy over the surface area makes me think the flush was nowhere near as thorough as perhaps it should have been. Was it a full chemical Powerflush you...

It's ok to do, provided you keep an eye on the pressure gauge to prevent prv from going and you make sure your pump doesn't run dry (which will be quite hard to gauge) However, I don't think it will give a very thorough flush as the mains water introduced will be more likely to take the...

Doesn't sound like a very thorough powerflush has been carried out. The only way to find 'bent' pipes under your floorboards is to lift all your floorboards and look for them.

No, don't do that. It's not designed to go onto compression with nut and olive removed. You need to fit an isolation valve, then small section of pipe then a 15mm compression to half inch male copper to iron. Screw your flexi nuts onto that with a rubber washer pressed against the flat face...

Yes, I guess that is one other factor to consider. I just wanted to know if anyone else does it.

I've never been told that this is the right way to do it but it just seems to make sense. What is everyone else's view on this? When running central heating return pipework, we always try to configure the tees into the returns so as to not have 2 returns coming from opposing directions...