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You could get it from TLC direct, unlike screwfix who sell in fixed lengths, they will sell you as may metres as you like .. http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/SW4slash3.html

whatever is easiest ... sometimes it is better to use a central JB and run each light to it. For 20 lights ... off the same 6A switch? quite a load unless they are low voltage

Apart from the cost RCBO's only appear to go up to a 40amp rating anyway and that's too small for a 10.5KW shower so that's one option out of the way. Personally I would go for the split level board change, not much dearer than buying a shower consumer unit (if you shop around)and you will have...

It would be easier to bend the cable if the wall was drilled at 45deg rather than trying to bend the cable 90deg after it comes thro' the wall. and it can be clipped direct to the wall without any other means of mechanical protection as it is steel wire armoured (SWA). Use cleats rather than...

Good point ... In that case you could use a single junction box and run each light to it and a 20A would probably be better , nothing to do with the rating it's just that there would be more room for the cables...

I've just about finished building a 'wet room' shower unit and intend to use mosaic tiles on the floor. I have seen some we would like to use but they are glass. It does say that they are suitable for wall / floor use but I have been getting conflicting reports from people on whether I should...

5-amp.... you might be better running the cable from one light to the other etc. that way you will only have the one junction box.(where the mains cable comes into the existing ceiling rose) Your lights will be 'double insulated' so there will be no parts on it that will inadvertintly become...

Masona, 4mm 3-core SWA would be best (2.5mm is actually suffient for the load you will be drawing but go for the 4mm) terminated in a MCB at the main CU in the house with a shed/garage cu fitted in the summerhouse The unit can be bought from screwfix for £30, a bit cheaper than TLC are...

The best option is to run in another 6.0mm to give two seperate 32amp circuits for the two appliances. The single 6mm you have at present is too light to take the load of both.

When you say 15amp rcd do you not mean a 15amp mcb? 2.5mm is capable of taking 19amps (4kw) so fitting a 20amp mcb would be fine Breezer ... your link takes you to a topic about a washing machine....

Not connecting the permanent live supply will mean the fan will operate only when the light is on ..... assuming it's off the same switchwire!

It was a B&Q superstore I got mine ... If you have a lot of boxes to do and £35 to spend you can buy this, it cuts the boxes out in no time and cleanly (also includes the chisels and a few drill bits etc)... well worth the money...

Probably find Screwfix have them in their catalogue and if so then you can enter it into their web address search it will come up (not all goods are entered on their website) Failing that I know for a fact B&Q sell them ... I bought one, £5 'ish for the double and you obviously only use 1/2...

That lip stops the box from falling into the hole and is covered by the socket, hardly noticeable. By the way it's not the first time I have seen the box used as the template on the wall the wrong way round (using the lip) and then the hole is too big for the box! Cheers Breezer ..don't know...

The 'lug' is what you screw into ... in a dry linning box (as used for plaster plate socket fixings), they are spring loaded and tighten up against the back of the plaster plate holdong the socket in place. -- A godsend for the electrician and very secure.... Red lugs

I use a junior hacksaw ... if you take your time it's not too bad. There is quite a heavy protective rubber sheath around the conductor cables (between the armour and the conductors) so you would have to be really unlucky to cut thro' that and into the insulation of the conductors After...

Fitting glands to armoured cables are not always the easiest thing in the world. There are different types and some are 'universal and will fit various sizes of cables. One thing I would suggest is to ensure the shroud and bottom 1/2 of the gland is on the cable before you strip back the...

You will need a seperate supply, ....the 6.5KW appliance alone would potentially draw just under 30Amps and that's not far off the limit for 6mm cable (32A I think!)

As your house is not a PME installation, I personally would take your earth from the connection at the board. There will probably be an earth block beside the CU

It would appear by the sound of it that the feeds have been looped via the switches in your case so you would have the 2-lives at the common and the switched live at L1(or -L2 as it used to be) on the switch. The neutrals will be connected together in a terminal block. I would hope that deeper...