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Re: 3 core and earth in 1.0mm, you can get it in 1.5mm PVC (not wire armoured) ...City Electrical Factors sell it. As for the main switch between the meter and consumer unit ... Scottish Power install this in new installations, they will also do it if asked to pre-existing installations usually...

Contact your electricity supplier, they will fit a 100 DP switch between the meter and the consumer unit They will 'seal' the topside but leave the bottom side (consumer side) open. There are two sets of terminals there which would allow you to to connect in a seperate set of mains to another...

You must have been good at 'Pythagoras Theorem' in school ... the old 3-4-5 rule was drummed into you easier to remember than the Theorem itself .. LOL

I think each regional council has it's own rules / regs on buildings... I got caught out years ago when selling my flat, I had taken down 2-recess walls and blocked up a cuboard in the hallway to form a new kitchen area. I was the ground floor flat and the 2-flats above each had the same work...

I have used Screwfix on quite a few occassions and I have had a few problems where not all the goods were delivered (but charged as delivered) or whereby the part on order was not available, but in saying that their customer services were very good and sorted the problems out immediately

The live being the switchwire from the switch .... and Yes, just double up the cables at the terminals looping to each light. There is no 'ring ' to worry about, it will just terminate at the last unit

You could use grommet strip, it would clip round the top of the tube. You should also ensure the tube is earthed along with all the rest of the metalwork

If you had a dangerous fault, the RCD would trip ... As you said, the Meggar test is the appropriate tool for the job rather than a DMM

Whatever way you do it you should make sure it's protected by an RCD (IEE legal requirement for outside skts). The cable should be protected in conduit if possible..plastic would be OK

I have the screwfix one and have no real problems with it ....can be a bit sensitive at times. I'd send it back!

Don't think you can... I don't see any way of switching the two strap wires (blue / yellow) unless there are three terminals at each switch (not counting the earth)

A straight forward outdoor light with a 'dawn to dusk (photo cell)' sensor rather than a PIR is what you are looking for. Try screwfix or http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/GLFIN255.html B&Q also do a range of them or you can also just buy a light bulb that has the sensor fitted in it...

Could be a bad connection ... You should get some heat resistant sleeving with the new fitting, just slip it over the new bit of cabling when connectint the new fitting

These switches at the top / bottom of the stairs are 2-way and will contain live / switchwire & strapwires, you need a Nuetral at the light in order for it to work and it is very unlikely that you will have one in the switch....although not impossible, depending on how the lights were wired...

I would replace the junction box with a larger one ... 6"x6" or 8"x8" depending on the amount of cables. Sometimes it's best to use a central JB when rewiring (rather than the loop-in method) especially if existing conduit drops to the switches are used ..as found in older houses. If you do...

Your Electricity supplier when replacing and resiting your meter should fit a Douple Pole 100A switch and 'seal' the topside, but leave the bottom side accessible. This allows you (the consumer) the ability to isolate your Consumer unit to work on it safely. The DP 100A switch has the...

Different wiring regulations here in the UK as opposed to the USA, we also use plastic boxes (as well as the metal ones). we don't have an earth terminal in the plastic boxes if that's what you mean, otherwise it is no different to installing the metal type

Floating should be fine...think the recommended gap (especially for that size of area is about 12mm. remember and fit a good acoustic underlay.

An accessible junction box with a blank cover plate, using 30Amp connector blocks (preferably behind the cooker hood if it is a 'chimney type' You will have 6mm cable inside the cooker switch but the fact that it goes to a 13-amp switched fused spur unit means the cooker is obvioulsly 'under...

The lighting circuit IS just as critical as the skt circuits ... a lot of light fittings these days require an earth. Doubt if you will get an Electrical firm to replace / connect a new consumer unit as the 16th edition IEE regs would make them liable for any earth fault 'incidents' that may...