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You cant really face them up with a render but you can put slabs on top of them and by the looks of it the lowest step is quite a short step so this helps. you just need to bed them down well with a 4 - 1 sand cement mix (fairly wet) and i'd use some weather proofing ad mixture too. and make...

25 - 30 per square metre 'all in' in the midlands. how much have you been quoted for?

All I was saying is its as easy to make a mess as it is a nice job, and a mess with easipoint mortar can be harder to shift than ordinary mortar. Just a warning from someone who uses it a lot. I really like the stuff but once its in there its staying in there. and a dust mask when mixing is a...

You are very true and I would be very much more inclined to go with your estimate than mine (I did say I would suspect) but there does seem a lot involved for an extension (maybe thats why I never get them?)

11 is closer to 20 than 9 :roll:

Take out 9m of cavity wall and support what ever is above and build 11 meters of cavity wall and found it then probably provide large pads onder the end of the beams and as you say columns? its not gonna be cheap. its not like sticking a 3 x 3 on the back is it which would be 9K ish.

I think the easipoint mortars have chemicals in them to make it pump through the gun easier i.e. not seperate and in my opinion if you do not have a steady hand and get overspill onto the bricks you have a real job getting it off once it goes off, its like grout. Its good stuff once its set if...

Yeah i suspect it would be closer to 20k.

I can sympathise with you on this one I have exactly the same problem in my house. Its a nightmare I now talk in whispers every where I go. I ripped down the existing plaster board exposing the frame all the way to the roof. Then I build up a block work wall using brick sized thermolite blocks...

Is this all from one company? I'd say they were going to waterproof the concrete with an admixture then paint over it then insulate and screed the top? this is a lot easier than a dpc sheet and is ok if done right but has its own problems. I cant really see why a company would specify a...

If the house is that old with a lime mortar it would be a shame to use a cement mortar with it a lime based mortar gives a far superior look and would blend a lot better with the existing. I would also stay away from places like Jewsons and Wickes as there sands are too soft for pointing unless...

If it is a lintel that is only taking usual bulding loads you should give IG or catnic a ring they probably have an off the shelf lintel that will work. Otherwise your probably best getting a SE involved.

You could use a strong boy? does away with props both sides of the wall

Crickey, I thought I was putting a simple solution in? Thanks for all the help I will defo look at getting a pump in the system. Cheers

Thanks the hot water does get hot quite quickly but the rads struggle a bit. will look into putting a pump in.

yeah it is solid fuel sorry? would love gas but none in the village? so it is a bit like back to the sixties or even 20s but i'm just trying to get the best out of it. so you would put a pump in the system somewhere?

Maybe not, but there is definately not a pump in this system hence my post in the first place asking about shape of the plumbing? Its a back boiler running three rads and hot water?

about 3 months old?

got the vents and drain points but its not pumped at the mo its on a back boiler. would you recommend putting a pump in?

thanks I was just wondering if it would effect the principle of hot water rising and weather hot water could in fact sink too?