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Groovy plier marks on the cable insulation BAS. Good pictures.

Hainault

Uhm - well he may be leading you up a culvert without a spoon which would expose an apparent willingness on your behalf (and a couple of others) to have a go. I think it would be better if we all played on line chess. I'll start - Red Kings Prawn 3 to Orange Bishop.

How do you know the picture is of BAS's installation?

My meter was recently changed for a new electronic type. At the same time I requested that an isolator be supplied and fitted which they did without charge. The isolator was fitted by the DNO to their piece of wood and was sealed at the isolator on their side of the supply. Do you like eccles...

Thanks BAS - knew I was going wrong somewhere. Had substituted CSA for circumference in C=Pi X D and arrived at the wrong radius. Therefore, even better contact area. :D

Plug, Just spotted the topic and calculated out of interest really - if my calcs stand up then a surprising surface area of copper is covered in a good conductor and, as you say, if the joint is well made then there is absolutely no problem. My point would be that the contact areas between...

Softus, One conductor surface area = 25.49 sq mm (cross sectional area plus 1cm cylinder surface area based upon a radius of 0.3978mm) rounded up to 26mm sq mm to allow for leaching of the solder along the conductor. I stand to be corrected on the calculations though. Two conductors makes...

Softus, Two bare copper conductors stripped back one centimetre hooked and bent over and covered in solder - and you believe they are are not effectively in contact - I think yes. Ans: One electrician and you :lol:

BAS, I make that 26mm squared for a single conductor? Softus, so two conductors = 56mm squared surface area, mechanically secure, not liable to significant mechanical movement and surround by a nice wet soldered joint - I see no problems. Regards

Big Gav, What sort of lamp is it? That is - is it a standard 'bulb' or a transformer supplied fitting etc?

It is probably me but I cannot see the difference (electrically) between the first and second circuit diagrams and am therefore left wondering what you are trying to achieve?

Say again?

The buzzing is probably caused by either:- (a) Sympathetic 50hz hum (b) Electronic inverter whistle within the body of the lamp

Maybe you have daff bulbs? What sort of lamps have you got?

Could be that you have disturbed a fault in the cable behind the socket or there is a depressed spider between line and neutral in the old socket :?:

Rob, Typically a motor will draw 7-10 times its normal running current on start up but it does depend upon mechanical load, supply characteristics and motor type. Anyway, using the 7-10 times normal current you can then consult the breaker/fuse characteristics to see whether it will trip/blow...

Thank you for the chance for us menials to peruse your most esteemed enquiry. Now off sod until you have learnt some manners. Regards

It is quite clear from the pictures that your eyesight needs checking and is probably the cause of the wiring error. :wink:

(a) Why not replace the pull chord switch with a motion detector switch? (b) Remove chord and issue them with torches? (c) Tell them that if they chip the tiles again they are grounded for a month - and then implement it if it comes to pass?