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original problem prob due to the hot water expansion vessel forcing hot water down the cold due to incorrect piping, (which has now been sorted looking at your second photo), this could still be happening if the non return valve in the manifold is faulty, try feeling the cold inlet then get...

that sounds as though the valves grey and white cores are mixed up, but that does not agree with the very first statement (All off - 240v G 0v O) I would check your wiring again. any chance of any photos of the wiring centre? Matt

or a wiring fault on the orange return What was wrong with the original valve? Matt

Your eyes are a lot better than mine Dave,I tried to save the pic than zoom in but still nee good!

You'd be surprised! It would be the first thing I would look at with the problems you are having (if you are on gravity hotwater that is) damage to the room stat cable while putting up dado rails,decorations etc is not unheard of either

Don't worry about it,it's because on setting "G" the programmer also turns on it's hotwater relay to fire the boiler when CH only is selected whereas on setting "P" it doesn't, the 3port does (or in your case, isn't) I agree, check the roomstat also Matt

I doubt that you are going to get any domestic controller to suit your needs, as they are designed to run domestic heating systems not commercial ones that I suspect yours is. sorry to be the bearer of bad news Matt

As above get whoever changed the valve to come back and sort it, If the central heating is working ok then it's likely to be an airlock in the cylinder coil causing what you describe Either way the last engineer should have checked all was working ok before he left anyway Matt

No Still the Cap...........probably :)

No, he needs a new capacitor to put in the pump - much cheaper than a new pump :wink:

Glad you have it sorted mate but for the record In my opinion there is no way on this earth that a half open manual valve or a faulty midposition valve installed in a correctly wired y-plan system could cause the symptoms you describe i.e the pump to run continuously Matt

you need to replace the pump Capacitor as it is as we say, goosed Matt

Machine mart do a puddle pump http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/psp125-puddle-pump still a bit pricier than you want to pay though not out of reach Matt

how high is the cistern above the cylinder? as this will determine the pressure at the hotwater outlets since you are in a bungalow I suspect not much are you sure its not the flowrate thats down as apposed to pressure since then? Matt

whats the boiler doing? is it cycling or cutting out on over heat I think t may be helpful if you posted a sketch or some pics of the layout Matt

you have a wiring fault The actuator should not motor on hotwater demand, by your description yours does the actuator should always motor on central heating, by your description yours doesn't has it ever worked properly? if so has the programmer,cyl stat or valve head been changed...

Aye, you have it sussed Matt

there isn't enough supply voltage try all combinations there are only three to do ignoring the polarity, there should definitely be a reading of between 5 and 12vdc between 2 of them Matt

Yep I was going to mention this too, and also the link you posted shows that particular item as a switch not a turbine and it also shows it as a unidirectional device btw take the plug off the turbine and check for between 5 and 12ish vdc on two of the pins but before you do that just to...

I have posted what to check, in your other thread Matt