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yes I will, I will dig them out later

Bloody hell talk about mountains and mole hills, what was or wasn't "illegally" installed is not really important what is is that the installation is safe for use and compliant, I have wired up a new build garage (12 circuits) and carried out allot of electrical work at home just because its DIY...

What about adding earth rods to the TN-C-S system effectively creating a PME then everything can be on one system and should be at the same potential, Its also worth nothing that every electric garage door actuator I have see has been class II not saying they all are but I would say most are...

I would use an adaptable box, the resin joints are not really made to be fixed to a wall and really will look terrible and be prone to damage. I suppose you could use two adaptable boxes and turn the cable so the glands entre from the bottom then use a piece of conduit between them rather then...

By the sound of it he has wired the left light with the switch bypassing the PIR so you have a choice of PIR or ON with power constantly to the light/PIR and on the right he has either wired it correctly and the reason its coming on is that most outdoor lights will be on for a period of time...

I would remove your switch fuse, get the meter installed and then reinstall switch fuse, I can see no reason unless they were trying to install a huge meter why there would be no room, and in allot of cases the meter box on a new build is provided by the client and built in so the meter company...

The only reason you may need double pole isolation is If you are on a TT system and have an upfront RCD before the consumer unit Unless this is the case I can see no reason at all for double pole isolation. Just have a socket for the appliance if any one needed to remove it they would...

There are allot of "on the side" meter moves etc done, most seem to be by DNO employees and apart from the fact the supplies no longer tally with the drawings there would be very little way of knowing what had gone on

If you have kids etc as a very tempery solution I would swap the cover off the neutral block with great care, at least you shouldn't get a shock off the neutral I'm sure I will get shot down for suggesting this but no one can argue that an exposed live is not far more dangerous then an exposed...

as above, it would seem that even if the garage is on the unprotected way at the house CU it has its own RCD main switch in the garage consumer unit

No such thing as cables that are two big (with in reason) go for 10mm feeder and 4/6mm to each building if you want wont cost much more

To be honest I Think your wasting your time trying to waterproof the patio, you will always get abit of water under there and it should just have some weep vents so it can run straight out, also I would have though that any water that goes between the flags will go straight down between the...

As above, those fixings are for plaster board and should not be used in wood so unfortunately your goanna have to pay for this one

I perhaps phrased my reply badly, Of Corse there will be some class II lamps with metal bodies, but in general especially with old lamps its unlikely that a lamp with a metal body is class II compliant and remains that way after it has been modified

Its not the voltage that is the problem Its earthling in a standard UK light the metal body must be earthed this renders the touch sensitive part useless, if you used the 115 volt version on an earthed body it would not work. The difference is in the US the metal body doesn't have to be...

Trial and improvement :wink:

Very much depends on the state of the conduit, it may be a lost cause but on the other hand it may be a nice straight piece of 25mm galv, that's as good as the day it went in hence no problem,

Personally I would find out if its possible to simply pull some armoured cable through the conduit either 4 or 6mm, if it will go then its problem solved surely?

I think you need to think this one through and wire it in properly with fixed switches and secured wiring with appropriate protection, The voltage's are low so there is no danger of shock the currents can be very high which introduces the risk of fire especially on mowing machines where there...

I would remove the flex earth from the plate, put this into the middle of the connector block, put a small piece of earth wire from the connector same place in the block to the plate, the just connect your supply wires to the other side of the block