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It would improve flow rate and pressure on your cold main. What type of system do you have?

Have you done any work on the heating? That fault code is usually attributed to water not getting away from the boiler quick enough. Could be: Air in system, faulty pump, iso valve(if fitted) shut on the flow pipe. How quick does this fault come up from the boiler starting up? Graham

You carry on with that outlook, maybe we will read about you in the paper. As for being empty or egotistic, you are the one who came on here asking for advice. You obviously were unsure of the correct way of going about it, otherwise you would not of asked. And because no one has told you...

Unless you have your heating on 24/7 with all the windows open, then on a combi, the highest gas use is going to be for hot water. As you quote figures of 25p etc, are you on a prepay meter, as quite often these are higher prices than credit meters.

The same reason that Plumbfix and parts center, who made a big thing a few years ago, about selling gas related parts only to gas safe registered bods. It is all down to sales. They do not care whether they sell a bayonet and gas hose to a diyer, or a boiler with totally the wrong flue setup...

you'll be lucky. Cant see anyone worth their salt doing a boiler swap for £150 :shock:

My advice would be to contact a local Gas safe engineer and expalin what you plan to do. If they agree they could lay the pipe and cap it properly, until you are ready to connmect to an appliance.

Not just any plumber, a gas safe registered one. 8)

What external controls have you got? Could be a control fault. Drop the frontpanel of the boiler( after isolating power), disconnect what ever wires are in 1 and 2 (and make safe), and place a link wire in, and switch boiler back on to see if boiler fires or not.

been looking myself recently for the same thing, for our beach hut. Found a couple on ebay, I think they were flavels. Still a few models of nat gas ones around that use only a battery for ignition.Look at one of these and buy a conversion kit for lpg. Graham

If you buy a programmable wireless thermostat, then that will still give you time control as well as a thermostat.

If the shower has a dedicated cold feed from the cwsc, then check this for restriction inside the cwsc. Could be some scale just restricting the outlet. Graham

A sudden rise in pressure like that is usually due to the expansion vessel. It may need recharging or it may be goosed. Look in the faqs on how to recharge the vessel Graham

More important than the number of bedrooms, are your hot water requirements. How many bathrooms/ensuites etc? Liklihood of more than one outlet being used at the same time? As well as mains pressure, you also need to ascertain the DYNAMIC flow rate. At the cold tap in the kitchen,time how...

Every drayton wireless stat I have come across, have the faults you describe. It is normally the scr unit. Replace it with a Honeywell unit. Either the cm727 or cm927. You will never look back.

Something like this, to move the trap out of the way http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/traps/space-saver-kits/1-189-single-bowl-space-saver-kit.html

It sounds as though your expansion vessel is shot or needs recharging. Check outside where the pressure relief valve pipework is, to see if it is wet or dripping.

AFAIK, other than wiping a lead joint onto copper, then this is the only way to join lead to copper etc. they come in various sizes, classed as the poundage ie 7lb,8lb etc. Cut a small section of lead off, and take to plumbers merchant etc, to get the right size. Never had any problems...

Not all aavs have caps on them. I have tried using my crystal ball but cannot find your make of boiler and type of system you have

Are you gas safe registered?