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In pic 1. the opening head seems perfectly level - a good sign. The frame is set back maybe 4" - also a good sign. Note: that when you replace the frame to take account of the TV ariel. Perhaps, go ahead and remove the internal wood lintel and then post a pic of what you reveal? Leave the...

Believe me, there are no "small jobs" in the building trades - there are jobs that have been professionally examined and quoted for, and cheap little jobs, that have cheap little results.Typically, done by people that dont know what they are looking at or what they are doing. Maybe the hinges...

I agree with the above. Why not take up the sheets surrounding the concrete (if they are glued then come back here) - mark them so you will know where to loose lay replace them. Then work out the most economical arrangement of boards to fill in up to the slate. Then lower the...

You could sand the pre-stained, and paint stained areas, with a hired belt sander. An Orbit sander will do tricky spots. A pain, but doable in a hall. Sink any face nails, snug-up any screws. Make certain that there's no bounce in any part of the floor. Post pics of the "gaps", there...

Depends on what you mean by "stones" - grit sand can be fine. In fact, some old guys would add a little grit to the render mix to give it added strength. Typically, rendering sand is sharp sand. But, believe me, all and every kind of sand goes on when the work has to be done. Professionals...

Its horses for courses. Depending on suction, excessive or lacking, and damp situation, PVA might be used in : First coat to dry. It dries pretty quick. Second coat applied immediately first coat dries. Allow second coat to go tacky, and then begin to skim. But, as a general rule...

Definitely agree with the above. Lime wash for lime render(s). Lime wash for just about any traditional render, in fact. Modern synthetic coatings & renders etc are something else. Lime wash has been used effectively for hundreds of years, and the old plasterers were certainly not fools.

I agree with the above. Plus, far too much water has been used. You can also see a multiplicity of grinning trowel edges/lines, stopping and starting, and going in various directions. Its no big deal to fix: apply self adhesive scrim, PVA (50:50) once, and when PVA is tack, skim again...

What do you mean by a "Specialist" who is "wholly independent"? How did you come to that judgement? AAMOI: you are in range of a truly independent, & experienced, damp surveyor-Patrick Doyle. What kind or type of "chemical damp proof course" did he recommend? Notwithstanding the blue...

A number of recent threads on the questions you raise can be researched on here. On the upper right side of the c/breast brickwork is loose, and the T&G(?) boards above are not falling on a bearing/support where they meet.

What you have should work fine if the section matches the imperial T&G. Note: in your previous post pic, the fungal damaged joist tails sit on a timber plate, plus a certain amount of wood debris can be seen below the joists. Timber wall plates are notorious for rotting out esp. when...

A number of building supplies will often supply off-cuts of visqueen. Call around. Or, approach a small building site and ask if they could manage an off-cut.

I understand what you tell me, but, i'm afraid, that i can only repeat my above suggestion to get someone in to give a considered view of your proposition and the work so far. Perhaps others on here will take you forward.

It might pay you, in the long run, to engage an independent damp surveyor such as: G.R. Coleman or Patrick Doyle. I'm merely using them as examples of independent surveyors. Ground water from wherever, or the water table on sloping land, might be contributing to your difficulties, but that...

What does "quite large and well known" mean? Do you have as much detail on them as they require from you? I can understand what they are doing if they are a genuine firm. Winning in court, if in a dispute, means nothing unless you have sufficient details to hunt and hound someone down...

1. You have continental drift; one plate is moving in one direction and the other plate is moving in the other direction. 2. Actually, you have a classic outside corner crack. 3. In modern construction we build-in crack lines so that the concrete cracks below the surface at outside...

If you were able to cut and slide a piece of damp into a bearing stud/post, then that stud had very little load on it, so, presumably, the partition is not load bearing. FWIW, your remedial measure is almost worthless. The root cause, i would suggest, is capillary action (rising damp) from...

Just a note that any render issues as such are best posted on the plastering and rendering forum where some expert renderers will advise.

Walkbar, There are some red flags in your pics. I'm surprised that BCO has allowed work to proceed. I dont enjoy saying this because i'm all for DIY'ers cracking on (the blockwork is well laid indeed) - but you really need a builder on site, for at least a paid view, and a bit of advice.

Price, of course, depends on a number of things - how high, how many workers, what equipment and materials? But, on the face of it, it does seem high - but i'm not there on site. Given the outlay involved in another repair (its not the first), why not look into replacing such an old fragile...