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I saw that the same program, Rob. I think htey only used reed matting because the couple wanted "original techniques"; they also used lime render. I doubt it's needed - or wanted - here as these aren't oak beams being reclaimed from beneath boarding. Also the cost would be a factor; reed matting...

If you buy a Mitre Block then the maximum size will be determined by the physical size of the block and this should be apparent when you look at it. If the buy the jig+saw type (same as the screwfix one) the same rule applies but you'll probably find they take larger timber sections. I had...

I wouldn't bother with mastic, I'd just plaster. Your intention isn't to seal it in, just to plaster. I would, though, try to get as little on the beams as possible...less to clean up afterwards! One thought does occur to me though - and this may well be overkill, but I'll mention it... If...

Phone the Environment Agency. They should put you right.

That's good tip, Masona...and one I learnt the hard way many years ago! :D

I'd use the float first so that you get a good coating over the plaster board and then you could use the brush to give a "rustic" finish. You'd need to experiment with the sand/plaster ratio to get the effect you want but that should be easy to establish. Maybe 14/ sand to 3/4 plaster...

Lime render would be "original" but not very practical today. What about finishing plaster with some coarse sand added to give it texture and a "roughish" finish rather than smooth? This could be painted afterwards and would give the cottage effect you want to maintain.

In that case I'd have a look at having a bar welded onto your chosen bit and give it a go... I think I have a clearer mental picture of what you're doing now... In through the trench and out through the brick under the step and into the sub-floor space under the hall? The only problem I...

If understand you correctly you need to drill under your path? If this is the case I can’t see how you would drill a horizontal hole under your path without first digging a pit (at both ends) to give you the vertical planes you’d need to start off the hole and finish it. As for drilling...

I think you'll find the salesman was correct. The problem with a longer blade would be that it "wandered" and produced a cut that that wasn't square and true. Remember that you reduce the length of cut available when you stray from the 90 deg line. The blade effectively becomes shorter. If...

You can paint directly onto the plaster but you must make sure that you've sealed the plaster first with PVA + water, possibly two coats -the first being thinner, say 1/4-3/4 PVA to water, the second 1/2-1/2, otherwise the plaster will simply take all the paint up and the finish will be...

You can stain MDF but it needs a little preparation first... If you seal it first, after sanding with 320 grit paper, with a propriatory MDF clear sealer...or ordinary sanding sealer, the type that won't colour it, and then stain it, you'll find the finish is much better. Sanding lightly with...

Or try a hairdryer on low heat.

The finest grade wirewool (0000) will clean off the oxidation. You shouldn't have to rub too hard so it should be a quick and easy remedy.

Blimey aaront, I'm only a little way down the 406 from you. Small world, eh?

Masona is right with all the above but there is one other possible cause. If your washing machine drains through the same drain as your sink - via one of those adapter kits that fit onto/into your sink waste trap (U trap) you may find that waste water from the sink is running into the washing...

It's not a difficult repair at all if you have some DIYish skills. You can buy flashingband on a roll which can be used to cover the cracked portions. It has bitumen on the back which melts and forms a bond when you heat it gently with a blow torch. The alternative would be to rake out the...

Firstly, what does the chipboard sit on? Secondly, what do you mean by "floorboards"? Laminates or "real" floorboards? Chipboard would be a suitable substrait for either (although laminate would need a specialist underlay as well) providing the floor under the chipboard is sound to begin...

Yes. All that happened was that somebody forgot to fill the gaps with expanding foam. You're lucky to have found a good company that was willing to come back and fix the snag. Many would have put you off until you gave up altogether. Most foams used have good noise damping properties, so you...

Definitely before the decoration. Afterward you should cover your hard work with dustsheets, preferably the heavy polythene type. As for the boards you need to replace…you can stain them to match using ground coffee made very, very strong. A few coats on a test board should tell you how...