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Just done something like this. The 75x75mm posts went down to the footing, and the cavity was widened to allow insulation round it. Posts were galvanised BTW.

They're not deep enough, need to be 9x2's

Whingeing :) mind you I've got a Pacifica too and I can't play mine either.

Today's highly bred Koi need heated water to really thrive. It makes them grow in the summer, and keeps 'em alive in the winter. But of course heating an outdoor pool is a bit bonkers that's why I no longer have a pond. Still have an interest but to do it properly costs a lot: pond £10,000...

Personally I would use the 7n blocks, though others would disagree :) I find they give a much stronger job, If you're rendering & painting the blockwork, the costs will end up similar to brickwork, but with more maintence...

Flexible grout will set rock hard, and will only cope with miniscule movement, It certainly won't stop cracking from say, a dodgy beam..

You didn't mention any sign of a problem If it ain't, broke don't fix it...

Why can't you run the drains down to the manholes with a steady gradient? :)

Ideally, the trenches should be dug, inspected by a BCO and concreted all on the same day.

I'm a big dog fan myself, but can't see the point of this sort of breed. I know some of them are placid and friendly, but it's never spaniels or labradors that attack or kill children is it...

If you are re-seling the flashings make sure you use the proper stuff-lead sealant. The water seal may be worth a try...? If water still comes in you're looking at fitting cavity trays. Not a big job really, a decent builder would do it in a day. looks to be about 8 trays each side required.

5+3+3-.9x.45x.6=2.72 So 3 cubic meters :)

It can only be water getting through the flashings were it's tucked into the mortar beds, are they pointed with mortar, or sealed with lead sealant. Or else, soaking down through the brickwork due to lack of cavity trays. (it appears to be stepped flashings? so no trays present? With the wet &...

The straps to give lateral restraint are usually built in as work progresses, as you say. I've seen the straps (with the L cut off) resined in to a slot, that's been drilled out of the brick, then fastened to the top of the joists. Other options are plugging & screwing them to the wall, or...

That's Karma, my friend. Don't think you'll get much sympathy on here...!

Random stone needs a backing block really (or use Surecav as said) except for a single storey maybe. I'm not quite clear on the type of stone you're using? If its coursed (sawn, or dressed even, top & bottom) 100mm+ is OK, if random, it'd need to be nearer 150mm, & see 1st paragraph.

You can get them to at least 2700mm. I've never heard of one break yet, but I'd use a 140 deep one myself :) or a box-section Catnic.

1/ Below the floor. 2/ They should bridge the cavity, either a box shape, made of slate or nowadays a purpose made cavity liner. 3/ No.

If I was doing it, I wouldn't break the up the existing floor. It should be plenty strong enough. Maybe spread the weight by placing 450mm square metal plates underneath your posts? To answer your question though... 1 part cement 2 parts concreting sand 4 parts aggregate (20mm limestone)...

I wouldn't worry about it. If you had a DPC 150mm above your patio the bottom two bricks would still get wet by rain splash anyway...