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He's not earning £800 a week. He's making £800 for working two weeks worth of hours in one week. If he did 38 hrs a week for "only" £380. Presumably you'd be happy.. :?

Just remembered we did one last week, a 4.6m opening, and used 4 needles 2 steel, 2 timber. Just what we had to hand. All depends on length of needle. We try to leave the width of a couple of scaffold board at the front for the props, whilst placing the rear ones close to the wall.

I've used both, but much prefer to use timber, say a 6x4, and I always screw the acrow to the needle. Steel-on-steel tends to spin and slip as you tighten the props I find. Also it's heavy 'n' numb to handle though obviously stronger... Six-of-one 'n' half-dozen of the other... Don't suppose...

It's straightforward, to my way of thinking. What I'd do: a solid hardcore base, sand blinding, rigid insulation boards, lay heating pipes then 100mm of concrete... Job's a dream :)

If you save 5 purple ones every week, this time next year you'll have your 5 grand. If you can't save this amount. Are you going to be able to repay it, plus the interest?

Rather boringly? I'd like to see the land were our house is built... What was there 50 years ago 150, 500 or a 1000 years. Then to go forward in time to see what will replace it. Quite interesting methinks :)

It's best to power float garage floors, it gives a much better-looking finish that will not be always "dusting up" In summer we concrete 1st thing in the morning, then it's ready to float in the late afternoon. In winter we concrete late afternoon and float next morning. Sometimes it's not gone...

Neat enough job I suppose Stuart, but I don't like it either. Raked back and brushed, every time...

Width rather than depth... no? I'd go for 600 wide and would of thought 200 deep would be ample?

You'd probably need access from both sides really. Why don't you cover your oak flooring with an old carpet or similar, and chuck a cheap sheet of plywood on top? You might need to extend the flooring to meet the new door frame when you've done the knock-through.

Forget about it, it won't be an issue.

Sounds good to me Joe. After all what do you need in life: shelter, loved one/family, hobbies/interests and above all good health. What you don't need, well what I don't anyway, is a huge mortgage, a heavily financed car, fancy gadgets and a desire to "keep up with the Jones's" Although...

Unless the floor's been re-layed it won't have a membrane... It sounds like the back of the house being partly underground may be a more likely problem?

You can chuck some wet sand over if you wish, but in these cool & damp conditions it's not necessary.

Oh dear... That's a scarily bad job! If you look at the sides of the door, the course under the lintel & the next-but-one below on the right hand side, he's bonded the outer skin to the internal.. :cry: ps sorry for the gloomy reply.

Instead of all this faffing around, just tell the builder to shove a concrete padstone in. It's a doddle of a job :|

Well 50mm min. for a wallplate really, but you'll have to go with what you've got. Finish the two sides lower than the lintel, to take a normal wallplate & make up the height above the lintel with a thinner piece of timber. You'll have to be a bit creative with the strapping down detail...

you forgot the :wink:

It looks like you won't be able to have the window the same height as its at now, as you wouldn't have enough bearing at the side of the padstone? If you brought the window down to the top of the door. Maybe: a leaf lintel ( L shape) for the outer 4" and a steel beam for the inner one, this...

Aye it's typical mobbing behaviour, many small birds will relentlessly mob raptors trying to move them on from their patch. Harris hawk is a North American species, but was probably was one, as they are frequent escapees. The jesses (thin straps) proves it was a falconers bird. Good to...