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You are correct MANDATE. I apologise to all, if I didnt make myself clear.

If you know where the leak is, I doubt if you have to replace all pipe. If not, this is a typical example of tradesmen trying to rip you off. :!:

I once heard that you dont need any qualifications to work on house electrics... Is this true?

"sterose - I've never seen a filling loop which wasn't 1/2" connections..." Youre the boss, but im fairly sure ive seen the actual threads (not the pipe) on the end are 3/4" threads. Its so you can thumb tighten it easier.

I would be interested to see you soldering lead pipe.... wouldnt the lead pipe just melt...

Reduce heat input:- I know I can on my boiler, but it involves fiddling around with the settings inside the boiler - its supposed to be for the plumber to alter, not the user. But I would reccommend just turning all radiators on all the time, and then it keeps your whole house warm.

Reduce the heat input to the boiler or, yes, turn more radiators on. One radiator turned on, will not reduce the temperature of the water in the system that much, so the boiler gets too hot and turns off.

If you bleed radiators, you will eventually see a pressure drop - there is no way around this (unless the boiler fills itself). If there are valves that the hose ought to connect to, then it should be as simple as connecting the filling hose, and opening the valves - and shutting them when...

Probably better to have both downstairs, becuase the heat rising will create the circulation.

Oilman, Do you have to blank off the internal PV? I would just tee off the pipework and connect the new PV - no problem.

In fact, seeing as your using a double or 2 singles... its not likely to be a small room. :wink: I would use 2 singles, at opposite ends of the room. But its probably just your personal choice, provided there is no problem with routing pipes to both rads.

I would think that 2 single rads would give slightly better heat (due to more air circulation - or maybe not). But others will perhaps be able to answer that question better. But either way, is your hall big and wide, or is it small / narrow. If its big, id use 2 singles. If its narrow or...

Is it a dripping sound or a 'flowing' sound? Does it go away instantly when you turn HW off or only gradually. I would think it might be the ball valve (they drip for a while, even after the tank is full).

You're quite correct too, soilman. "What you haven' t understood yet masona, (and not have I), is that as ban-all-sheds pointed out, you are dealing with someone so clever he can put a shower in at age 14, AND tell almost any professional to **** off as he knows much more than any of them...

How can I emphasize that im competent (ie Shower at 14) and be modest?

Sorry DaveK, and soilman. Like I say, have I upset someone? I would like to emphasize to all you miserable, no-humour, (un)professionals, that my posts are intended to be taken a light-heartedly as possible. The fact of the matter is that some people, like me, have a sense of humour...

Fair enough. I ended up doing a bit of meter work myself, because the company messed me around.

"a rope connected to a tree with a watering can on the end, with a shower attachment" Youre probably right... However, I'm getting the impression that I have upset someone... Are you a pro spark, supersparks? Oh yeah, and by the way, in ten years since that first shower, I have never...

HAHA! I've found that small jobs tend to cost you ££ (materials). However, it rises to £££ if people watch you, and end up ££££ if people help you.

Get the company to move the meter - its their responibility. If they wont, threaten to move it yourself. If they are still uncooperative, move it yourself.