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Youre house is extremely inefficient. A TV that consumes 4amps and a washer at 12.8amps. The wattage on my appliances do not nearly equal that. Even my 25'' telly only takes about 2-3amp. Perhaps what you mean is that those figures are the maximum that the appliances take. Such as how a motor...

Point taken, but isnt the point of armoured cable to prevent people pushing a shovel through the cable, and, if so, what is the need for ducting.

The trick here is to isolate and abandon the pipes that are within concrete, and re-plumb using pipework that is accessible and not buried.

As your knowledge seems to wildly exceed mine, FWL, I respect that you are the man in the know and I won't argue. However, it is not presumptious to assume that it's not being applied properly, because, as said, the fuse would simply blow if it got near 100amps. Although not impossible...

Obviously diversity is not being applied properly, because it if drew over 100amps the fuse would simply trip. I find it risible that any house could draw over 100amps at once - even with every single appliance switched on.

With said revelations, I would suggest you earth all visible parts, all pipe near teminals (i.e. taps), and that you attach an earth strap to the mains pipe (ie. before the pushfit fittings) and then run the earth lead back to the CU. For pipe than isnt visible, forget about it. Just make...

Forget the ducting, just make sure you bury it plenty deep.

If it's any comfort, this seems to be a common mistake. Anyway, you can use compression, but not pushfit - Compression can accomodate the size diference between pushfit and solvent-weld.

Interesting suggestion. How exactly should I change my use of English, Sir? Thank God! This is how you should describe the problem, it is much clearer and easier to undertand. Now, now. No need for bad language. It must be... That's the whole point: your english is good, and easily...

To the best of my knowledge, the pipes would have to be earthed, but I doubt there is any need to 'jump lead' the pipes at every single fitting. As an aside, I have to wonder why you are using copper pushfit? Besides the scare stories of push-fittings bursting apart, they are expensive, you...

Firstly, are you doing the gas work yourself? If so, I highly suggest you re-think your plan, as not knowing the ventilation requirements can be, literally, fatal. Doing it yourself, and not knowing the ventilation requirements indicates that you are, to use one of my "stock joke lines", a...

As a rule, you dont nomally need check valves. Correct. This provision is to prevent bacteria leaking into the mains drinking water. However, so long as you keep your bath clean, and dont leave the head dangling in the water all the time (or in fact, at all!), you should be OK without the...

:D

You need to be more specific about your problem. Is the water actually pumping into the tank (and therefore maybe overflowing?) or do you just mean it gets a bit warm? Moreover, why is the pump on the return? This would mean that it is sucking water around the system. Also, if what you...

Out of curiosity, what is your field FWL? I quite like science myself, and you appear to be well-educated and a font of all knowledge... in that respect, it is about time we had more people like you who know the answers...

Incidentally, it isnt technically a 'rule' that you be clear. It just enables people to answer your question - something others dont understand. Basically it is just power. I wouldnt think that using the more powerful one would do any harm, but dont get the more powerful one for the sake of...

Youre the boss, FWL. But here "up north", I have never used a shower that doesnt dim lights. Admittedly the supply circuits probably werent designed to feed so many amps. But nevertheless, dimming is "normal".

I have to thank and commend you for including all information possible, and in a clear and structured format, enabling a swift reply. You should see some other posts - they are written in Jibberish. Anyway, it sounds fairly conclusive that your pump has gone. They are easy to replace (old one...

Absolutely. Nowadays? I have never seen a system with any other setup than this. Even older gravity systems had 22 or 28mm from the boiler to the tank, and then 22 teed off to a pump for the rads, which was cut down futher when it got to the manifolds.