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I suggest a long....long, long...taper is used to light the collected gas. In any case have you tried bleeding all the gas out of the radiator. And then see if it fills up (or fills up, less).

You might find that the super-concentrated water is actually a problem. I've never used inhibitor, but is it flammable? It could be that the excess is boiling or something and releasing flammable gas. And when you say the gas burns, do you mean a little tiny flame, or a burst of flame from...

That's the problem with pipes in concrete. The best option is to replace the under-concrete run with fresh pipe. It shouldn't cost too much. Or just put up with the problem, until you move out. I assume that the property is being demolished (selling to developer), becuase if it isn't...

If find it laughable that you have come to the conclusion that it is hydrogen because it burns.. It is not altogther impossible (at least in theory) that Hydrogen is being produced, but nevertheless unlikely... Perhaps you should consider that it is possibly another gas besides Hydrogen...

Wont do any harm? Silly you... The 15mm valves have a bore of about 8mm, which is bad enough for low pressure. If the blo*dy thing is half open, you'd be lucky if you got hot water by Thursday... My suggestion is to replace these valves with a larger bore type (i.e. Full bore valves, or a...

Are we talking about a 'detonation' boom or a 'low-frequency whoosh' boom? My boiler 'whooshed' for years (before it was replaced) and I never had a problem...

I'm sorry if i didn't mention this. I would have thought you would have done tghe obvious and checked to see if it was just the bulb.

"but could not guarantee this would fix it" Laugh laugh. That's because it would not. It is called 'kettling' and theres nothing that can be done. I've had it myself.

Can you detect exactly where the pipes stop getting hot and go cold (i.e. if a blockage, the pipes should go from steaming hot, almost instantly to cold[er]), because, obviously, the source of the problem will be around that point. But if there is no point where it goes straight from hot to...

Yes, good point. But it would make replacement parts illegal.

If its a Stelrad then the hot water will be gravity. The problem with gravity, is that it has very low pressure (comapred to mains). Just about anything under the sun could cause low flow on the hot. But as the problem has arrived since your new kitchen, i would bet it is dodgy...

I would be inclined to say why bother. What if something goes wrong with a component twice. That mean both boilers are then useless. And even if, when it comes to the crunch, you can get replacement parts, they will be more expensive. But I assume the law will say that old boilers...

It most certainly is the switch that is dodgy (though I doubt it is due to it being 2way). Assuming the circuit is bog standard without faults, i would try replacing the switch.

First, you dont say whether you are installing a new cooker, in a new kitchen. Second, you don't say whether the 13amp cooker is just an oven (i.e. no hob or grill), which at 13amps it most certainly is. Third, if cabling is already installed, and it looks fairly meaty, it will be fine...

When you say 'conventional boiler', I am assuming you mean a old bog standard boiler, without the all-singing-all-dancing features of modern combi- or system-boilers. Anyway, in old boilers, the only parts that make demands on the electric, are the pump, the 3way valve, and the gas valve...

I'm curious as to why your hob is 30amps? Sounds a bit on the high side. A whole electric cooker, with hob, grill, and oven together, rarely takes 30amps if that. Either way, if you want both to run off the same cable, run some new 6mm cable, run it into the 'main' switch (the one above...

When you say 'flash', do you mean a little tiny flash inside the bulb, or full intensity flash as though it's still turned on? If it's a little flash, i'd go with il78's explaination. If it's a 'full intensity' flash, it sounds like the on/off switch might be dodgy.

In fact, it's not so obvious... You could easily confuse supply to be the supply to the item, and the load to be the supply. I've never confused these myself, but I can see how you could...

Fair enough. I've never actually had to work on my boiler so I cant help you with how to do it - but just be careful. Because before you know it, you might bug*er the whole boiler, and end up hiring a pro anyway.

I agree DavidH. I think Jo~ker has been using Brand X. Haha. Sorry, just a little joke there... Anyway, people shoud try to use good english, because typing text style (i.e. 'rusbgiupsifh') is hard to decipher when using professional terms. It is fine for every day conversion on the...