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how would a faulty/sezied pump cut the pilot too though!?? i'm no expert hough obviously!!

you can still have a HW cylinder with a combi. Anyway people shouldn't be fiddling with boilers unless they are CORGI and trained to do so. it could be fatal.

i haven't written many comments so what are you on about? im not saying i always need pics but people dont understand technical terms as plumbers/HTG engineers do and without them explaining it properley, without seeing it it is difficult to diagnose the correct fault.

well the poster should have said the boiler stat temp, it wasn't clear, how can someone understand what to do and do it correctly written like that. And anyway the boiler temp isn't just the CH temp it is also the temp the HW cylinder coil gets heated too. So very confusing...

leaps and guesses! i don't guess, i work things out properley, and analysis nearly everything! but the way people write on here makes it hard to understand without pics!!

who am i? someone who thinks half the posts here are stupid - all this crap and all the OP needed to do was get a plumber or htg engineer in to fit a new pump. talk about making a mountain out of a molehill

how am i a moron you idiot.

don't turn the CH (room stat) temp down low or the water won't circulate! the stat will tell the pump/boiler it is SATISFIED

if it's sticking then it wouldn't be turning freely like the OP said would it!

on about 80% of plumbing and heating problems are caused by the systems being installed incorrectly!!

WTF!!!! the pumps rotor shaft turns and nothing and then all of a sudden it kicks in!!! that is nonsense, either the pump turns or not, turning a pump rotor shaft through the centre screw will not all of a sudden give it magic power! a very dodgy post this is....

if the spindle (shaft) is seized it may be best to change the whole valve anyway as in the long run you'd be best off surely?

:roll:

no drain valve is very bad. without one how would you drain a system?!! i guess if the spindle/shaft is seized a new vale is needed (not just actuator) is needed - obviously!

the system will drain fully surely? otherwise you'd never be able to change it!

I was told that the lever opened the valve but didn't actually operate the switch that puts power on to the pump/boiler. Unless this is onlt the case for the 2 port valve?

yep i know it also helps to drain down system (on 3 port it will drain anyway if not even pushed across though) but my point was - on a 3 port mid position: it does allow whole circuit to be open (so heating to be on when hot water is calling if valve motor fails but once hot water is...

if the manual lever being pushed across DOESN'T open the valve fully then what does it do? By emergency I mean if you have no Heating but Hot Water as the motor has failed then pushing the lever across when Hot Water is on gives you Heating also... Yes I agree about the bypass - it is also...

am i right in thinking that the MANUAL lever on a MV only OPENS the valve and does not actually puts power on to the pump and boiler? so in an emergency with a 3 port mid position valve you can have HTG also on with HW? On a 2 port valve which has a permanent live feed you can actually...

It will effect whether his heating comes on or not due to the end switches. I always advise of this if the heating valve is faulty and left on manual. It will not power up the pump or boiler it will only allow water to flow through it.[/b] i haven't read through all of this post, BUT why...