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Also, no point in having an RCD in the shed, it will be protected from the main consumer unit as you have no unprotected ways to use.

Even if you gouge out the bottom you wouldn't be able to terminate the armour properly. best to remove the boxing, terminate armour into a galv box or conduit box then into the consumer unit...or call Jordan Electrics and get them to do it for you...!

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/LMEST1.html

I suppose it depends who you get and how you go about it. I only say this as I've spoken to two UKPN guys in the past month who both insist that it is chargeable unless it has previously been sweated on.

Sorry, must have been taking a sip of my drink whilst reading through your post! :oops:

Just wait until those screw heads start sheering off on the final turn for luck...! How about a nice single pole Henley for that pro finish..the WF ones even come with an earth sticker for the front, and don't forget your safety electrical connection warning labels!

Probably at a cost as it's not sweated on.

Without a doubt, the best suggestion yet.

Are you replacing an existing stat and/ or internal time clock? In it's basic for I would wire L & N from boiler spur to receiver and R1 to COM, R2 to NO1.

No it wouldn't...only if you wire it that way. Get a maintained 8W bulkhead, run a new length of 3C&E to the bulkhead (to replace existing light) and job done. Works as normal light and an emergency fitting. (Or you could use flex if you don't want to use T&E, or SY with some really...

Or just fire up the first socket on one leg of the ring and wire in as many more as you need for the time being.

Yep, had exactly this scenario yesterday morning, all the lights in the house on one circuit, no time to replace fan so in this instance, thank heavens for the fan isolator!

Although looking at the second photo again they don't look like REC2 isolators so maybe an invalid comment of mine. I'm sure on the REC2 though the bottom cannot be removed without the top coming off, hence supplier tails into bottom - sealed, and contractors tails in the top.

It's always in a large house conversion and I like to see just one earthing conductor (rather that the 6mm cpc and 10mm making up the 16mm for a PME supply). That's if there is a separate 10mm run in. Usually the T&E leave a Wylex switch fuse that has been hacked away at the top. Often...

I was referring to the second image posted by SMN. The tails from the meter should enter the bottom so they can be sealed leaving the top part to be removed by the contractor.

Apart from the tails entering the wrong side of the isolators, the unsheathed conductors of the sub-mains, no additional fused protection and that no one likes a T&E sub-main that actually looks alright! A lot better than some of the stuff one sees.

Nothing that a pair of side cutters won't sort out... :)

I have a t5-1000 and wouldn't be without it, excellent piece of kit although not a direct replacement for a multi meter as I'm sure you know. In fact I've just bought a new multi meter as well.

Have a look at ESC Best Practice Guide 5

Drill some 3mm or 4mm holes to find exactly where the joists are then carefully cut away a small section that clears the joist either side by about 30mm/40mm then go fishing with some trunking lid or coat hanger or something else suitable (you'll be expert at it after the first one!). If you're...