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I haven't looked at the reg you have mentioned but if it talks about applying diversity then surely you could use this as your basis from which to calculate voltage drop (as you have said using what you think will be the probable loadings). Are you calcs demanding you out in a large sub-main...

How does this work if the elements are connected in Delta? Another question...! What is the difference in the physical make up of a 230V element and a 400V element and, I suppose the same question & answer would also apply to a 230V or 400V motor winding?

Yes, that is what I meant. Just trying to visualise how they would be physically connected...as my questions above.

So how would the elements be physically connected? If star, would one end of each element be connected to a common point with the other end of each element connected to L1 / L2 & L3? And if this is the case I presume you could potentially connect a neutral to the common point? If delta...

I presume you are assuming that the 3 elements were each connected individually to each phase with their own neutral then and not linked across each other?

If it was wired to 3 phase supply then surely it wouldn't have an internal neutral wire? Not for the heating elements at least.

Are these the breakers from the old Wickes units? If so, then the old (about a year ago I think) GE breakers were a perfect match. Toolstation sell GE breakers but they have changed design, but I think they are still fairly close but can't be sure... I checked against a Proteus breaker...

From the OP it looks like it's just circuits being extended so probably not notifiable work. Maybe the BCO actually knows what he is talking about but didn't want to waste time explaining what is and isn't notifiable under Part P. Details details! As long as the work is safe and BCO is happy...

I reckon just cut your losses and go for the above. Will depress you to start with, but you'll be assured of a decent job and proper fixings that you shouldn't have to re-do.

At a guess, blue and white from 3core on the right strappers, red from that 3c feeding the common of downstairs switch. 3core on left, white switch to light, red and blue live and neutral for upstairs lights. Maybe. Maybe not.

Prevention of moisture into ceiling void? Keeps a consistent look in the room?

I haven't given any advice.

You might want to consider running a 3C+E from the rose to the light switch and installing a 2G switch so you can get the full effect from the new garden lights with the kitchen lights off.

True, and I agree, I would also want to know. I suppose it depends on how much money the customer has and how busy the electrician is?! Essentially, if the situation is made clear to the customer then they at least have the choice as to whether to write a blank cheque or whether to proceed...

What "fault"? 5M ohm is well above the limit set out in the regs, and depending on how this test was carried out (whole installation / individual circuit) as well as many other factors seems like a perfectly reasonable result (remember it's 5 million ohms!) A reading of 5M ohm will not...

Really? We don't know how/where the conduit is being run do we?

I asked an NIC inspector this exact question a about a year and a half ago and he said he was happy for Wago's to be used in an inaccessible location. Depends on your defenition of inaccessible as always, but in this instance we were talking about domestic, under floorboards with whatever covering.

If neutral broken further down the line than the point you're testing at then you'll get 240v N-E.

Broken neutral somewhere. Break it down.

Managed to use some earth sleeving at least!