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That on the ceiling looks like woodchip! But anyhow if it is artex that's no problem to take of the peaks and skim The walls look a big more work but it's hard to tell from the picture You know the guys working at £200 a day labour rate so it just boils down to if you are happy to...

Right I have just been to the van to have a look as I have 2 marshalltown stainless trowels (pics to follow to highlight something) Both these trowels were bought as ordinary stainless dura soft handled trowels and not gold trowels My 14" is a permashape and 11" not Just ignore the...

It all depends on where in the uk you live as to pricing Eg I live in the north and would not get the same rates as I would down south etc Again with the artex it depends how bad it is to how long the job will take And if it's just a skim or not I'd also say get a couple more quotes...

The only way to get a good finish is to get it done properly Depending on the artex thickness/pattern etc the peaks may need to come off and a tight coat of bonding to flatten it out The method mentioned in the op is a botch at best an you will end up paying twice and in the long run...

A stop bead is like an angle bead but doesn't have the 90° return it is just flat and is used and intended for non 90° angles exactly like this Would have made the edge perfectly straight and sharp

You could but then it would need hacking all off I wouldn't be confident leaving any of the existing on with the damp described in the op But perfectly fine solution if it was me it would all come off then either of the solutions would work

Render shouldn't go below the damp proof If it does it can act as a bridge and rise above the dpc and cause damp problems Sounds like it was done incorrectly to start with and then the builder who rectified it didn't actually rectify it he just bodged it back up! Ideally the render...

Is it rendered all the way to ground level :-/

As the man says, that's normal but personally wouldn't have scratched it before skim

That will be a hell of a lot of sanding and dust/mess Why not get it skimmed? I'm not saying you can't tape and joint square edge boards but it will be more prone to cracking down the joints and as there won't be a taper for the tape and compound to sink into it is a lot harder to blend in...

You have the wrong boards for tape and joint The method you describe above it what you use with tapered edge boards Square edge boards are meant for skimming

Always remove if you can I had a customer the other week who was adamant she was keeping the skirting and stripping it back Got a phone call the week after "can you help, we changed the skirting and it's taken the new plaster off with it" But the customers always right lol!

Use a thin coat stop bead on the wall edge as close as you can to the door opening so that it will open and skim up to the bead Nice neat job and also adds strength to the end so it doesn't chip etc Makes the job look professional as well

Thank pal Just what I was after Wanted to make sure it was safe to do so first before attempting anything

Thanks tony Would it be feasible to replace what's there with another that sits straight? Thus making it easier to box over? Also is there any reason logically speaking why there isn't another one at all bearing in mind that's right next to a load bearing wall that the joist sits on?

I've managed to get a couple of pics This is where it's into the brickwork This one is the other end there is a brick supporting wall to the right also As mentioned they are nailed to the joists