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I'm covering my garage with Marley Thrutone. I was planning on using the 600x300mm version, but ridgeons quoted for 600x600, which I didn't actually know existed. http://www.marleyeternit.co.uk/roofing/slates/thrutone-fibre-cement-slate.aspx Would 600x600 slates be suitable for a...

You need a grommet for the hole into the metal box. Also, it looks like a flex, rather than T&E.

Excellent. Thanks for the reply. I think I'll give it a go. Would this cheap paint be "smooth" a smooth finish, as you've suggested: http://www.screwfix.com/p/no-nonsense-trade-masonry-paint-brilliant-white-10ltr/13039 ... or would I need to get something that actualy says "smooth" on...

I have a garage built from 3.5N lightweight Fibolight blocks. They’re medium density aggregate, rather than aerated concrete (AAC), but they’re “non-paint grade” blocks. How much of a disaster will it be if I attempt to paint the interior? (Exterior is already clad in timber)...

Actually, it's only a single story garage so I should be fine with 3.6N blocks. I didnt realise you could get lightweight aggregate blocks. Theyre a lot earier to handle. http://www.plasmor.co.uk/html/products/plasmor-product-selector/concrete-blocks/ultra-lightweight-aggregate/fibolite/...

I'm about to build a block work garage. It’s going to be timber clad on the outside (for planning) and bare blocks on the inside, which I was going to paint. Blocks are going to be 140mm rather than 100mm because piers would be awkward with our current design. I was initially planning to use...

re: acros Actually, yes. My place is 1900, and the floor is all suspended around the chimney. In later houses this might not be true. As for a buildings notice, I pointed them at the floor I replaced and they didn't give a monkeys :(

I'd ask about planning, but I didn't get planning permission when I removed one of ours and noone has complained. I did the work myself (plus girlfriend). It's not hard at all, if you're completely removing it. If it's on a party wall, you're supposed to notify them 1month before you...

Wow. Shocked at the negativity! Sounds like I had exactly the same situation. Dry-ish cellar, now a utility/laundry/storage for beer/wine and tools etc. I spent about £1000 on materials. I can't really comment on most of that except to say that we're totally happy with our extra space...

Actually, on the left hand side I just chopped the 2nd level block at 370mm to that it meets the center of the 1st row block. I don't know why I didn't think of doing that on both sides. Can I not just do that everywhere to not have to cut such short 'closures'? Like this:

So I don't have to bother with piers. I would have to put a pier right where I wanted a window :)

I was planning on doing a regular stretcher bond with 140mm blocks. Only problem I'm struggling with is the corners. How I'm doing it leaves a 63mm sliver, which seems like a bit of a nightmare to cut. I was planning on regular concrete blocks, rather than aerated concrete. Is this how...

Right. Well, thanks for that :) That's saved me quite a bit of money :D I saw pictures like this: http://www.schlatter.org/images/New%20house/Footers/rebar%20in%20trench.JPG ... and what with the previous footing containing rebar, I just assumed. Looking back at the images on google...

Because there was rebar in the footing I removed. And there are a lot of trench footings on google images with rebar in. It seems like a sensible place to put it :) I assumed that was the norm. Is that not the case?

Anyone know which rebar I'd need for the footing of a trench foundation? The footing is going to be 450mm wide, 350mm deep (deeper than I'd like, but a long story). There are quite a diameters available. http://www.buildingmaterials.co.uk/high-tensile-rebar.html?filter=%26fl5%3DRebar...