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There is a new part P document that you can should read. You don't need to submit a plan, but will need to notify them 48 hours before you start. Make sure your eathing and bonding arrangements are adquate for the building and flats - so that will probably mean at least a 10mm earthing...

I should have said "IP44 or greater", for example I know the halers are IP65.

If you are going down the LED route why don't you buy something designed for the job. Aurora, JCC and Halers all make LED downlights as a complete unit and most are IP44 Mixing LEDs lamps and transformers is not the most efficent way of doing it. LEDs work better with a constant current...

If you have really connected them in series then it is not going to work? Also if you read the info on the Phillips website about dimming you find out that you have the wrong dimmer. Quote From Phillips Note: R & RL type dimmers are "Leading Edge"

Just becuase the consumer unit was changed does not mean you had a re-wire. Looing at your PICs your consumer unit does not comply with wiring regs that were issued in 2008 and probably does not comply the set of wiring regs before that - mainly due to the lack of RCD protection. Seeing...

You won't get prosecuted so stop worrying about it. If you can't get hold of the guy your only option is to speak to your building control department and see what there procedure is; i.e apply to Building Control to regularise the situation. Or get the work re-done by a registered electrician

If you are using GU10 50W halogen lamps (240V) then it is a common problem. Generally I don't fit dimmers if the lamps are GU10 50W halogen lamps (240V). When the lamp blows quiet often it will damage a dimmer module. You can try a dimmer module with a higher rating (400W), i would...

Caravan site owners have the same problem, their industry has solutions where customers use pre payment metering with cards. I have a come across a few customers (landlords) who don't provide seperate metering becuase they wanted to avoid the up front DNO costs (it might also be some kind of...

http://www.qvsdirect.com/Protek-1-Pole-Metal-Clad-Switch-Fuse-100A-pr-22628.html Have you checked you are allowed to install your equipment in the meter box? Most DNOs impose conditions that only allow their equipment to be installed in the box - even if you supplied the box!

Post some close up pictures next time It does not work like that. You can only ceritify your own work, unless the person signing the work has inspected the work through the whole installation process. Again it does not work like that, certification (and building control notification) is...

My guess is the fitting is technically and economicaly time expired, replace them

If the cores are really broken inside the cable the cable will need to be replaced - which means you are in for a re-re-wire. Do you really want faulty cable in your home? If your family friend used conduit for the cable drops you might not have to chop all the old cable out and re-plaster...

How cold was it when it was installed? http://www.basec.org.uk/News/Basec-News/Cables-in-the-Cold

http://www.led-master.co.uk/philips-master-led-lamps/led-candle-lamps/philips-led-candle-lamps-4059.html

If it works without tripping with the pump and I very much doubt it is the MCB, but try it if you must. As you have already identified it would appear to be the lighting part of the circuit. Perhaps the fitting itself or a faulty cable. As already stated you need (or an electricain) to carry...

From the loads you say you have I would not expect it to be overload current. You really need to carry out an insulation resistance test. I suspect you have some kind of water ingress at a joint, which would give you low resistance between line and earth, but not low enough to cause...

See 521.5

I have an occupancy sensors in my office and in the kitchen. Had them for over two years now. My wife loves them, because when she walks into the kitchen with her arms full of shopping the lights come on, and I don't get nagged when I forget to switch off the lights in the office. There are...

That look like a 25mm single gang galvanised steel back box with some kind of adapter plate. On the other hand it could be a non standard american J box. Can you give dimensions?

I find the click-flow ones far to fiddly and the cord grips on those 16A ones are about as useful as a chocolate teapot Mt preference are the ashley/hagar J501 http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/ASJ501.html for downlights