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You need to get a neutral to the "PIR", if it was me I would install a new cable with 3-cores and earth, most probably between the existing light fitting to the switch/PIR location

[/url] Make sure it complies with British Regs, a client of mine purchased a mirror with socket outlet from bathrooms.com, the socket outlet was NOT connected to an isolating transformer! :shock: The respose from the supplier was that nobody else had complianed and it had a CE mark.

I am 100% sure you need to comply with PART P of the building regs, an that covers more than just the cables or terminations. Sure you can do 1st fix yourself, however you need to make sure your electrician is prepared sign off your 1st fix work (I would not) or you need notify building...

You can't really do that. You will need to speak to the electrician before you start to see if he is prepared to take on responsibility for your work - chances are that he won't, and you would have to let him make the decisions on how best to comply with the wiring regs and building regs, OR you...

Maybe that's why it has a "Powerful replaceable rechargeable battery pack (12V,7Ah) ensures all year round operation"

The Vent Axia Lo-Carbon Quadra range might do for you. It can also be flush mounted but you will need to check carefully that you have enough space in the void. Even on the surface its not ugly. http://www.vent-axia.com/files/pdf-downloads/Lo-Carbon%20quadra.pdf

If you are suggesting that they need to accessible for emergency switching/isolation then the big switch on the consumer unit might be more apropriate. For functional switching - all the applicances i have seen have their own switches for that For maintenance - then moving the stuff is no...

Personally I don't see the point. I prefer to have a single socket outlet in an adjacent cupboard. That way it is not visiable but still accessible.

The fan you had orginally installed was most likley a centrifugal fan and is better suited on jobs with higher resistance to the air flow for example your long duct. Most the slim line axial fans are only really suited for pushing very short duct runs for example through a wall. If you...

The nominal voltage in the UK is 230V, in reality it is very rarely that. Since the 60's the supply voltage for domestic in the UK is 240V, in the late eighties is was harmonised with the EU to 230V +10%-6% (253V-216.2V). As 240V is within the range defined in the EU harmonisation document...

I work on the principle that an hourly rate is more than they daily rate divided by 8 (e.g. 200/8=25) So an hourly rate would be in the region of £35, so if you had 3 2-hour jobs in a day you would cover your costs, don't forget you need to include travel time between each job.

Apparently it is for half-days site visit! You get nothing- except the online "essential guide". So you can't even use that on your laptop/tablet unless you have a 3G connection, and in my neck of the woods that is does not happen all the time. It is a rip off

I can't read the diagram either, however it probably does not matter as it does not have sufficent detail. When I said "Can you draw out all the components and put the diagram online? " I meant for you to show all the valve(s), timer(s), stat(s), pump(s), boiler(s) etc. - a bit like the...

No, but it looks pretty simple, you can download the manuals here. http://www.honeywelluk.com/products/Systems/Wireless/CM927/

I really can't make sense of what it is you are trying to do. So if you have a separate pump on a timer, does that timer fire the boiler as well? Because if that is the case then the other pump will run as well (possibly against a closed valve), unless you have added a relay? Is it really...

So what controls the other 2-port valve?

Read The F***ing Manual Are you still having a time controller? 4 would be your permanent live to the room stat relay box. the s/l from the room stat relay box would goto 5 or brown of the 2port valve.

Is the CFL (low energy lamp) dimmable, you have to get a lamp (bulb) that is dimmable - the ones you get from the supermarkets or diy stores are quite often not dimmable? It is possible you have now damaged the dimmer and/or the low energy lamp. As suggested try a normal incandescent lamp...

with a use name of cowboy, do you really expect help - got to be a wind up

I will concede that its not the way I would design it, however if I came across it during an inspection I would not immediate condemn it as a fire risk. Just about any electrical load generates some kind of heat and constitutes a fire risk if not designed properly. However To quote the reg...