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1. What you propose is doable, but you must first establish the final position of the wall - the base plate. Mark it out and the drop plumb lines down to the marked out base line ( work from the inside face at all times ). 2. When you have established your top plate position, fix the plate...

1. Your doorway has a door head, and above the door head is a hefty lintel which appears to be supporting a possible landing halfway up the fight, and some other detailing. 2. Is there a landing/platform in the stair flight? Do the "skirtings" running up the stairs stop and "change direction"...

1. Yes, now is ok. No special additives req. 2. Rake out to 18-25mm, use an angle grinder if possible. 3. Practice pointing in an obscure area. If you feel confident enough, do your perps first, and then your beds. Dont strike-off until it's begun to set. Constantly clean your tools.

1. If the lower step is affected by damp then the remainder of the slab will also be damp affected - hence, apply a liquid membrane across the whole surface. Ref. bitumen, read the instructions. 2. Damp prevented from dissipating thro the floor might find another outlet in the surrounding...

Why not try posting in the Tile forum? Or go on johnbridge.com - one of the best and friendliest diy forums on the web. They are expert in all things tile and bathroom, try it.

1. you will have to source lengths of straight studding for your project - both for studs and plates. 2. Typically, one assembles the studwork flat on the deck and then raises it in position. To do this, your bottom plate will be on edge precisely at it's final position. 3. Determine exactly...

I wouldn't be unduly worried about the asbestos in the cladding tiles -typically, remove them with a slate hook and re-fix any making good as you would say, Eternit fibre cement tile. Marley also do a fibre cement cladding. My take on this kind of thing for a one-off job is that you would have...

There's a Tommy Walsh programme dedicated to a well located in the living room floor of a cottage. It's an excellent done job, and worth looking up - wherever one finds old Tommy Walsh TV programmes?

Please dont apologise for asking a question. There are no stupid questions. There are however confusing questions, which is natural, given that you are not in the building trade. 1. i have no idea if what you propose would add value - perhaps an Estate Agent ( God help us ) could assist on that...

1. Your layout seems fine for the space available, and position of the door. Only you will know where the waste, soil and vent are positioned. You might have a little hacking out of the wall joist/blocking to accommodate your tub waste if it's going directly thro the wall. 2. Ref. layout, if...

There have been recent posts on exactly this subject, perhaps you will research them. 1. you can sump pump the oversite water out, but you will be pumping the water table. 2. You can lay a membrane moisture barrier on the oversite, and up the "foundation" walls, to protect your suspended floor...

1. With respect, clean up your work area, including in the joist bays - brush and vac. Things and thinking go much easier in a clean workplace. 2. Post some more pics outlining the proposed footprint of the bath and it's drainage wall, and note exactly which are joists and which are battens...

I presume that you are asking for a rough price for erecting a double steel box frame only? Whatever, so much more info. pics, and actual scanned specs would be required to hazard even a guess. Others may feel, or be, more competent than me, but i wouldn't know. As you noted, dont attempt...

Perhaps if you explain what it is that you are trying to do then we might be able to help you further? I suspect that you are intending to install a solid fuel stove? How come this particular Register was ordered - is someone else involved or advising?

Suggest you go to the plumbing forum and post and research the enormous info. ref. water service and lead. In short, yes, do change pipe and your stop-valve, but first research. What else is in the trench, at what depth?

People, ref. our vicvapour, perhaps he's been drinking the stuff or rubbing it into his non-regulation parts, and it's given him a rather nasty shock ( you should stick to Mogadon if it's prescribed ) - all this obsessiveness. If possible ignore him. I dont think that he's a tradesman...

Yes, you should be safe at 1100mm spacing. But why not post some pics of, both sides, of the wall in question.? Breakthro's are more than just acrows and removing masonry. In your own inexperienced interest, dont do anything until you've posted pics and picked a few brains.

You do have stone surrounds to some openings and the frames are set back. Do you have moisture penetrations at the stone surround frames? You can remove and re-use the same frames and set them back, but it will be a bit of work and no guarantee that the moisture will stop. Perhaps do one...

1. What kind of stone is in-situ? A soft stone can be easily cut as catlad says. But i dont think flashings as such are the answer. Perhaps "Hood-Mouldings" in a sympathetic stone would help? google "hood-mouldings" and consider your options. 2. merlin claims success with "treating" similar...

With respect, i understand that you apparently dont have much cut roofing experience so i'll start at the beginning,so to speak. Roof cutting refers to pitched roofs and is the traditional term, ie a cut roof. Perhaps cut and pitch is a local term? Your references to span and width and...