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1. the previous post will work, but polyfiller tends to grin thro decorations. You can buy small bags of repair plaster, typically, at plumbers supplies. 2. Perhaps, fill the holes with whatever, but keep the filler shy of the finished surface. 3. Wet around the holes and keep wet. This...

1. Post pics of reveals and sill. 2. PVC window installers when replacing wood frames, typically cut the horns off and leave them embedded in the masonry ( along with wooden fixings). see my post of: may 10 2011, in the windows and doors forum - "replacement frames - a deadly practice. a...

My two cents would be: 1. I'd take joe's advice and, for a start, take down the stained board. 2. On a dry day, get out there and clean/wipe the gutter. 3. Start lightly water testing from the outlet up the fall. Short sections of gutter. If the leak is in the gutter this testing will...

1. You apply like any powder plaster, from a hawk with a steel trowel. 2. Apply a very tight scratch coat to start, and while the scratch is wet lay on over that to pull it out. 3. Leave to set up a little, and then rub up with a wood or plastic float, or even a block of 4x2 wood. Rub up...

I'm sorry, i was impatient. I apologise. AAMOI, i've now looked at the pic more carefully, and notice what i should have seen immediately: that the ceiling is lowered. You cannot skim over the tiles. However, you can probably fix p/b thro the tiles to whatever backing the tiles are fixed to...

If the "original plaster above" is indeed original, then it will be a sand and lime and horsehair. The render mix that i mentioned above will "blend in". Mark a meeting line at 1m above FFL, and undercut that line with a utility knife, hack off all below up to the line, and the undercut will...

I must say OP, that at times it's like getting blood out of a stone, when the posted info. trickles in like this. I'd suggest that if there are any other variations, or details that might help us to help you, then perhaps you would describe them now.

1. Of course, you can render selectively. No problem. 2. No. No "masonry sealers". Leave the open brickwork alone. 3. Does one of the adjoining rooms have a step-up, or a step-down? If yes, then ignore that room's FFL. Now match the FFL of the new work to the remaining rooms' FFL. The...

Oh, so you have a suspended ceiling? 1. remove the suspended ceiling and all fixings. 2. locate your joists, and mark them. 3. Screw p/b into marked joists. But first go up into the loft to determine that all is well above the bathroom. 4. Consider any new lighting options before...

Thanks. 1. You probably have cramp irons holding the rail sections together. They will rust, expand and eventually blow the stonework. 2. The whole thing appears ramshackle and degrading - is it worth saving or replacing? 3. Whatever compound you apply, to attempt a repair, will most...

Thanks for your reply. Go below the gable and with bino's if possible examine the barge board, and the edge/verge detailing - is it pointed-up or does it have a custom dry-verge detailing? what material is the roof cover eg slate or conc. tile? What type of "skylight" do you have? Put your...

I cant enlarge the pic, perhaps you could do something with it? Do pics from outside below and in close-up.

Given a house say, with the gas meter removed by utility and their side labelled and capped off. All apps are disconnected. The house owner requests a non-Gas Safe plumber to locate a gas leak in the installation pipework. What would you Gas Safers consider the legal position to be?

If possible, post a scanned, ground plan diagram, showing areas of concern for you and your neighbour. Show all gullies and Soil pipes, and waste and soil drainage positions and runs. Also show both water service runs and entry points. 1. Are you located on a hillside? Or at the bottom of a...

Your pic doesn't work.

With respect to Tony, all your proposal would be doing is adding a little stiffness and a load of extra weight to an already inadequte for purpose 4x floor. It could give a dangerous sense of stability to a later house owner who might overload a fragile carcassing. Not to mention sagging and...

1. A cottage of that age would have outer and inner stonework infilled with rubble. I presume that the exterior is not rendered? What's the condition of the pointing? 2. Tanking up 1m is an expensive possibilty, but could create knock-on difficulties. 3. Rendering up 1m with a 4-1 or 3-1...

I'm not sure of your directions, but typically, inside the opening and on the cheeks, wire brush off all soot and loose deposits, and render ( 3-1 S&L mix) as you propose over a blinding of one dry wash of PVA and second coat of tacky PVA. Skim where necessary with board finish. We bang in...

Totally agree with Micilin. Note you would have to find your joists. There is also an issue of damp staining near the alcove - if not already sorted i'd investigate that first.

I agree with letinman - it shouldn't be an issue. Given that they used to be installed in ceilings with pine T&G boarding over p/b. If issues of ceiling depth did arise, then you could cut away/expand the upper layer(s) of whatever, and work from the lower/final p/b opening. Another...