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Sorry to resurrect an ancient thread but I have the same issue with my Grohe valve and was wondering if anyone has any advice? Unfortunately it is not under warranty so probs won't get any service backup. It just squeals a very high pitched squeal while on. Seems to come and go if you wiggle the...

Maybe a daft question to the afficionados among you... but I've stripped my bathroom walls back to the brick now and am wondering about the best way to get them plastered? The big issue is depth (as i think i mentioned in my last plastering post). I would happily just strap and sheet but on one...

Ah, so I should be after 1/2" taps then? Think I was less confused before I asked the plumber :) Would I be right in thinking there are 1/2"-3/4" converters anyway? so it wouldn't be the end of the world if I got either? Sorry if this sounds ignorant but plumbing fittings is the one thing I...

Thanks Tony, I spoke to my plumber and he has said that for a bath I require 3/4" valves so I'm guessing I just go with that. I know the combi won't be that great for filling the bath but thats fine. We are looking at getting a new and more effective boiler at some point in the future anyway

Agile, the system was ordered at a greatly reduced cost - £135 including the finishing trim kit, less than any of the other options I was interested in. I will get in touch with my plumber and ask him for his thoughts. The plumber is yet to take the hot feed off the system for the bath but I...

Hi all, I have ordered a Grohe Talentofill system for my new bath. This is a system which has an intergrated bath filler and pop-up waste so I just need to get some deck mounted valves to control the flow of water into the filler itself. I need some advice though. The water intlet for the filler...

To be fair, it should be ok, All walls are internal bar one small wall and it is a pretty thick well clad external wall. That one can be battened anyway. All the rest have a good height of about 3 feet before they meet the ground and the underfloor area is well vented. The render I am knocking...

Ahhh! Good to know, I will look out for those then. Does D&D leave any space on the back of the board for ventilation so any damp does not get through?

Really? I thought you could not use drywall adhesive on moisture resistant board because of the foil backing?

I'm no plasterer but I'm fairly sure when I was researching plastering an article noted that while the smooth polished finish looks impressive it does not give paint as good a key and needs to be sanded first, maybe this has something to do with it? I'd of thought he would do it all the same...

Thanks again Richard, I've done a fair bit of reading about tiling and feel that it is something I should be able to do without too much bother. I started tearing off the old render, it is just over an inch thick in some places but I've found that if I saw squares into it with a pad-saw I...

Just re-read my post and noticed I omitted to say that the shower area will be done with 12.5mm aquapanel or similar... Is Aquapanel suitable for dot-dabbing onto brickwork? I would like to allow a space for the wall to ventilate but wasn't sure how thin you can go with straps so dot and dab...

Basically as a follow on from my question about skimming tongue & groove ceilings... the whole bathroom was clad in tongue and groove. I have begun to strip it all away as part of a total bathroom refurb. Under the newer T&G were a few things. From the floor to about 150cm up the wall was...

It might take a wee while to get it boxed in and fit the pan, you never know when you might get caught short ;)

Cheers mate, will have a think about that then. I just thought it would be best to shet straight on to the toilet frame using self drilling metal screws as I'm trying to minimise the frame protrusion out from the wall.

Thanks mate, I think I'll go with the Geberit then! Wondered about the flush plate position as well so will take that on board ta!

If it is just one area which protrudes into a room you could even try to make a feature of it? We had the same issue but decided to get new boards for around the rest of the room however in the bay window we would have had to replace the sash frame if we ripped out the old skirting as it was so...

Any thoughts at all? I will be buying tomorrow so if there is anyone with any experienec either way I would love to hear from them!

Will try and throw a pic up tomorrow... This bathroom refurb will be the death of me, it has so many overlapping elements of the job trying to figure out a sequence for the work is literally driving me up the wall. I'm thinking I will use self drilling metal screws to fit 12mm ply to the frame...

Thanks, looks like the joists are a shade over 500mm between centres. The room is about 1750mm wide so I'm thinking of just getting 1800x900 sheets and shaving a little off one end so I can just run them right across and don't need to stagger them. Any advice or thoughts on the suggested...