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1st thing is the cable coming from a socket or a switch, you say both??

no, as per my earlier post take the 6mm which is under the worksurface into a new cooker control unit with a socket incorperated in it, then take a new piece of 6mm from this to you new oven and plug the gas hob ignition into the socket

thats fine, just put another on the cable under the worksurface

on the technical bit of the tlc page it states 50-60 Hz so it doesnt alter that but it does give a guide to sizing the transformer, this may be your problem

no you may be right about the Hz thing but if they are sold as transformers for usa kit they may do something different from the normal yellow jobbys, the guys at tlc may know more

Riz if the oven needs a 6mm supply put a cooker control unit (which has a socket incorperated in it) on the end of the 6mm cable under the worksurface then run a 6mm from that to your oven then put a plug top on the hob flex and plug that into the socket :-) job done...

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Necessities_Index/USA_110volt_Convertor_Transformer/index.html this may be what your after?

does sparkticus mean run a radial to feed the outside socket via its own rcbo or surface on a mcb, so if there is a lawnmower fault it only takes out that circuit not the whole house

not sure what you have got at the moment but as Prentice says you could just put the existing cable under the worksurface (6mm?) into a double socket, modern ovens are rated at 13 amps and could go on a plug top into one side of the double socket and the gas ignition onto a plug top and wired...

well if you turn off the fuseboard and put the three cables into 3 seperate connector blocks if you turn the fuseboard back on and turn on the switch you should have 230 volts between red & black (live & neutral) and also 230 volts between red & blue (live & earth) not a real loop test realy but...

yes prob wired with no earth but this means no metal light fittings or switches can be fitted until you run an earth or maybe like you said the blue may be an earth you will have to get this checked first

yes the light may have a green/yellow cable from the connector block to the metal casing but it needs an earth from your fuseboard for it to be earthed. if the casing became live current would flow down the green/yellow cable to the block but unless it is connected to an earth nothing would...

the light fitting needs an earth you mean, it is therefore important you prove you have an earth maybe the blue. is there an attic above the light in question where you could follow the cable?

well if someone wired it and didnt have any earth cable they may have used a piece of blue cable as an earth, then it would be red live, black neutral & blue earth, but you will need to prove this before you connect it. will your electrician remember or call in to help??

the blue isnt green is it? you arent colour blind are you, not taking the mickey, but cant understand why you have a blue cable. how many grey cables have you got coming out of the ceiling and is there a bare copper earth cable

are you sure they are live then, did he tell you they were?

has he left the wires bare or are they on blocks? as if they are bare he may have disconnected them somewhere else

i didnt say it was a neutral i said because they probably used red & black as a switch cable it looked like a live & neutral in the junction.

bernardgreen are you being serious? i know its the switched live i was trying to explain it in simple terms so student spark could understand whats going on and why (probably) the outside light would work when the switch was off.

thanks Rocky & RF, all done :-). i did look on auction sites but i also needed a couple of emergency lighting keyswitches so thats why i had to replace everything, but back boxes are compatible just for everyone else to know, well the 12 gang anyway.