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So, are you. Saying NO to there being any cons, or NO it shouldn’t be rolled on top of existing boards?

Hi, My mum is 81 and lives on her own in a bungalow (bear this in mind later ). She has just had a completely new roof as it was EOL with holes and leaks. Her loft is boarded out with minimum insulation and I wanted to bolster this by rolling out 200mm insulation just over the top of the boards...

So…..back to this. I’m wondering if a 4mm x 20mm x 2000mm rolled steel routed into the underside of the worktop on its thin edge would stop the bowing? I’d be very surprised if it didn’t. Or even right-angled steel half sunk into the worktop. I tested square tubing and you can bend it when it’s...

OP edited, those still willing to advise, please re-read. I think i’ve covered all bases bow.

Blimey, ok whilst I appreciate any and all advice offered, it does seem there is an element of splitting hairs here. I’ll edit my OP to included all the supposed misconceptions or assumptions.

I did mention that the back edge was on batons fixed to the walls. Does that not imply it’s in the corner?

Ok, sorry. My stepson has used the same brackets to hold up his worktop and that is solid oak. It’s NOT L-shaped, but it is much heavier than my worktop. I’m fairly confident that the brackets will work, once I get them properly anchored to the walls AND packed right to actually connect to the...

Dust is black. Pretty certain they are cinder blocks. Drill bit slips a lot too, which I guess is why the plugs don’t properly catch in the hole even when the bolt opens the wings out when screwed in.

Yes deffo in a corner from wall to wall, hence the batons along each wall and the idea to just use heavy duty brackets to hold up the worktop which remember is 28mm not 40mm thick, and no legs.

I would have used glue to put the biscuits in, but then silicon to join the 2 worktops. Does that sound acceptable?

I did mention L-shaped in my op.

Agree about the timber, but with enough brackets they deffo should hold up the worktop. My stepson has done it.

That’s the ones..

Yes I’ll use packers and no not biscuit jointed. It was a dry run that seemed to go well so I carried on without biscuits. Then I found the out of level issue and the dip in the centre. Guess I’ll have to strip it down again, sort the bracket issues, biscuit joint the worktops and let’s see how...

Don’t think they’re thermalite. It’s a 70s built mining estate.

Those are indeed the brackets I’m using. Using m10 bolts and plugs (like the ones supplied with radiators). Anyway i’ve been to screwfix and bought some of the resin fixing. If I can’t get the plugs out then I’m hoping that I can still squeeze some into the plug and then screw the bolt back in...

I have thought about mounting the brackets onto timber, but the most troublesome bracket is behind a radiator and I had to angle grind a bit out of it to get it to fit. It doesn’t compromise its strength but I can’t baton it out because there’s no room.

Hi all, So my office is 2m x 3m. I have an L-shaped (2m x 3m x 635mm) office worktop (28mm thick), butt jointed using 3 easibolts in one corner spanning both walls. I didn’t want any legs impeding chair access so I have batons on the walls holding the back edges level and Herkules heavy duty...

Well, from my experience only last weekend, we left some leftover gear on the hardcore and it obviously dried, but then it was too high for the new bed to go over it, so we have to just hack it off. If yours is level but dry you’ve likely left very little depth for a new mortar bed to go down.

Hang on, you laid the bed down and simply left it? What overnight? Even if dry I’m not sure that’s a good idea. I’m doing this very job with my step-son. Porcelain slabs, buttered(?) with slurry primer then laid on a fairly wet mix of 4:1 sand:cement mix to give us amateurs a fighting chance of...