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Ok thanks for the advice yes I'm using heat proof adhesive. The advice to secure once set seems to make sense cheers

Hi I'm about to start boarding around my fireplace. I'm using 25mm vermiculite board. The company advise to fix with adhesive (dot and dab) and also screws as I'm tiling over the board. My question with this is should I fix the screws when I apply the board or should I let the adhesive set and...

Again just an update on my project. hearth now up to final level and opening bricked up. It's been slow going but feel like I'm getting somewhere now. Always happy for advice

Just got round to sorting this. Did 4.1 mix. Fairly wet with cement and SBS slurry first. Left it to stiffen up a bit and then leveled off the surface with a straight edge. Had wet towels over it for last four days to stop it drying too quickly. All looking good so far so thanks for all the...

Thanks very much for the info it's much appreciated I'll use a straight edge to level it off but should I float the surface as it starts to stiffen of just leave it.would floating give a harder final surface plus is 4.1 the best ratio for this

Yes I have some

Thanks for the reply. Ok so the stove is a cassette type. Most of these heat the hearth to 100 degrees or above. (As opposed to stoves in legs which don't heat to above 100) So this is what is worrying me having said that the bond layer would be approx 50mm below the surface as the screed will...

Ok so my head is full of dilemmas. So I used sbs bond to reface some crumbling concrete window sills and applied a thin skip of screed (about 3mm) before painting. This has held for years so I know it's a good product my issue is that because the hearth will go right back and the stove will sit...

I've attached a pic of what it's currently like. You can see I need about 30mm. So would a dryer screed be best or a mix more similar to mortar

Is there anything I can do to remedy this. I'm at my wits end with it all. I'm a diyer so just need advice. Surely when people chop out old hearths they sometimes have to patch them up or raise the level

Ok I see so really I need to chop it all out and start again. Just a thought but could I try and add a mix similar to render. No idea what mix is used for this but aren't thicknesses similar.

I was thinking exactly the same regarding footings. Floor is suspended timber and I want the screed to finish at floor level. The current level of concrete is about 30mm below floor so I need to raise it by that

Just general search on net saying it needed 1 day per mm before I could screed over it

Sorry meant reading not hearing

I need to raise the level of freshly laid concrete. By about 30mm I Planned on laying 4.1 screed over it but I'm hearing that it needs to fully dry out before I can add the screed. If it is possible would I need to apply a cement slurry first

I'm just about to start bricking up to create new enclosure for inset stove pic shows roughly where bricks will be and trowel is were stove will eventually be positioned. The base is concrete but needs raising up by about 30mm which I planned to screed with grit sand and cement. Question is...

Ok so pressume this is because tamping brings more cement up. Soi plan to tile this so will I need to chop out the top layer and re screed with tamping and trowelling

I thought that sharp sand screed would result in a harder surface than soft sand is this not the case

Ok so I laid it all at the same time with the screed going straight onto the concrete. So would you expect to be able to rub sand off it. Also if a wet it and rub I get a sandy/cement slurry as though it's not fully set but expected it to not do this after seven days.

I have recently cast some concrete and finished the top off with about 30mm of sharp sand screed. The concrete was mixed 4.2.1 and the sand screed was 4.1. the issue is that I'm not sure that is hardening correctly. Its been laid for a week now and gives of sand when rubbed.hard I've added a...