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Another contributing factor is our UK voltage level. Most of our lamps are made abroad these days, so are made for 220-230V (which means they are built to the lower end of the manufacturing standard, as are most things). Despite our UK voltage being nominally 230V, the substations still knock...

Someone has sent or will send you a bill for moving the cable. The one you pay is the one you have the contract with and so they're the one you have the argument with; if they appointed someone to act on their behalf (eg sub-contractor) it's still the responsibility of the main contractor. pj

Bear in mind that a humidistat checks humidity levels - that doesn't just mean the humidity levels left by the bath/shower water, but includes the humidity level in the atmosphere. To minimise the atmospheric background effect, run it with the door and windows shut. pj

In a bathroom you'd be better off with the IP65 rated fittings - these have seals that stop moisture (steam, humidity) getting past the fitting and into the void above, where it would condense and cause damp/promote mould growth, etc. Some seem to think that the IP65 fittings are only needed...

An alternative could be low-level countersunk wall lights (like the outdoor brick lights) - you get the light at (almost) floor level without any of the water leakage worries. pj

How long is the pipe run from the shower vent to the extractor and the extractor to the outside vent? Longer runs reduce effectiveness. pj

Just because the cable is "red and black" doesn't automatically mean it has to be ripped out and replaced. If it's uPVC wrapped it's likely still in perfectly good condition, though the lighting might be missing an earth. Almost certainly there won't be enough sockets, or in the right places, so...

If the cable is to be completely hidden it will mean opening the ceiling, drilling through joists to run the cable, then replastering and redecorating the ceiling. If you don't mind the intrusion on the decor, trunking can be run round the room at coving level with the cable inside that...

Debatable. Colour is subjective and will vary with room decoration One unit for four lights means single point of failure. One per light means that if one fails there are still three lights working. I would always go for 240V downlights as then there is only the lamp to fail and need...

35mm will give you more room to work if you're not experienced at fitting wires, but they also require deeper chasing out (ie more work wall bashing!!) 25mm would be adequate for what you want to do - you pays your money, takes your choice pj

For most uses the 25mm deep boxes are adequate. If there are a lot of wires to accommodate, or you're using slimline sockets (where all the works sit further back into the wall) go for the 35mm. The 47mm are usually only for cooker sockets (where the cable is heavier and needs more space) or...

Perhaps I'm being thick but I'm not clear what's not working. The old one came on when the light was switched on and went off two minutes after the light was switched off. The new one .... ? pj

If the installation follows the usual pattern of inverter up near the panels, it'll be 240V AC running down the drop cable to the consumer unit, not the 12V panel output. All sorts of variables depending on the eventual installation, but as you're trying to future-proofall you can do is plan...

Depends how much roof area you have and therefore how many panels you could accommodate. Most domestic roof areas can't fit more than 4kw-worth (at present panel capacities) in which case a 4mm cable would be ample. But if the panels are that much better by the time (if) you fit them, 6mm would...

All of that is pure rubbish workmanship and electrically bad. Definitely one for Trading Standards. And if you got him off Rated People you need to go to them, too. Give him some non-star feedback and suggest to RP that their rating system isn't up to much in this case. pj

Cross-wiring circuits so it needs two MCBs switched off to kill the power IS wrong, no two ways about it, so that's wrong to start with. I suppose one could be generous and say the "electrician" might have sent you someone else's certificate/results by mistake, but that's pretty sloppy. Does...

Had the same in a flat a few years back. The callout was because every time the light was switched on the MCB tripped. After a couple of goes I pinpointed the problem fitting (there was a quick flash when it went bang - just as well to find the right one out of a dozen downlights). The feed...

In my experience most people seem to use a load of decorator's caulk to make them stick - the wrongness of this becomes obvious next time a lamp needs changing ... I reckon the best thing to do is drill out new holes for the fittings a few inches away, then fill in and redecorate the original...

While certain aspects of electrics are simple, straightforward and not in need of training and qualifications, most of it is, especially if you're going to be charging people for your efforts and their lives are potentially dependent on you getting it right. You don't have to be employed to...

Talk to the agent about the letting contract - there should be a clause that says the tenant shouldn't be making changes to the property without your (the landlord's) express permission. Tell the tenant you're getting in an electrician to check it over (the agent should have one on the books if...