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The LED failures I've had they've just stopped working, but it's always been individual lamps. If you've got 4 gone together then I'd say you're looking at a loose connection, in fact I'd start with the light switch, probably nothing to do with the LEDs at all. PJ

Usual culprits for random tripping are fridges/freezers and boilers (which work to their own on/off schedule) and outside lights or sockets which may have got wet in them. Depending on your electric supply such unexpected random trips can also be caused by outside influences coming in, rather...

Finding the right dimmer for your LEDs can be a voyage of discovery - even the manufacturers have admitted they've been a letdown on this, with too much incompatibility between dimmers and LED lamps. If the dimmer and LED come from the same maker they "should" work together. PJ

Sounds like it's broken. Possibly the brass contacts in the back of the switch have fused (possibly from a surge when the lamp blew). Did you change the lamp or di you take the light switch off as well - sometimes a switch will free up if you take it off and rewire it, but it's more likely to be...

That's the point - you won't be paying just for someone to change a socket, you'll be paying for peace of mind, and the professional judgement of the electrician as to what needs doing. Bargain!! PJ

Drivers are, to all intents and purposes, transformers, but you need them specifically for LEDs. Most transformers don't work with a load less than 20W, and even if you attached half a dozen LEDs to one it would be unlikely to work as LEDs usually have different electronic requirements. And...

That'll be fine for 25mm backboxes, but if you're planning on having the flat plate sockets and switches, they'll sit in better if you have a deeper box, so a 35mm box chased in by 10mm PJ

Sounds like he didn't fancy the job and just wanted out! It would certainly be more expensive than the average knocking in of sockets, but without seeing the job I couldn't say how much. Some tradesmen don't want to work on older properties like yours because they offer more challenges than some...

If the new shaver light doesn't offer a usable earth connection, get a connector block and join all the earth wires (circuit protective conductors to give them their official title) with that. PJ

Your kitchen dimensions are similar to mine and a single 5ft fluorescent tube does fine at providing general ambient light. We also have lights under the wall units to provide a more direct working light on the worktops, plus a cooker hood with lights. Whether you need anything more than the...

I don't think it's made any more. When I've come across it on refurbs the builders have said it was briefly popular in the (I think) '70s but didn't last long. And I doubt the manufacturers would have cared twopence about the likes of us getting cables and back boxes into their product anyway...

Because some people still cling to the urban myth about fire hoods being a legal requirement (or some such). Judging from the OP's question he's not an electrician, he's a civilian with a bit of acquired knowledge, imperfectly understood (like most people), but at least one who prefers to err on...

If replacing with 230V lamps you can probably keep the fittings, just ditch the transformers and replace the lampholders with GU10 fitments. Then replace the lamps with LEDs. PJ

16A for a ring is only "too low" if you put too much through it. Given his list of appliances I doubt he'll get anywhere near it. In any case in the event of overload it's erring on the side of safety - it will trip too soon, not too late. If he's after a shopping list I'd want to suggest the...

Tony, using words like "greedy" about people who are trying to earn a living won't make you any friends here. I'm surprised that out of four sparks you contacted none of them would even consider the job - I'd have at least come round for a look at what you'd done. You say you've already laid...

And MEM is one of them ....

Assuming you didn't make any changes to the circuits in the garage, then logic suggests the fault must lie in the connection of the SWA. pj

Probably should be turn signal INDICATOR. pj

Assuming that's an upstairs bedroom, you'll probably find the wires connected to the lighting circuit at a junction box or two in the loft. Or they might come from the room's main lighting rose. pj

http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/BRH65Z.html Try this one, probably available from your local wholesaler as well PJ