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To answer your original question, yes you can replace your old thermostat with a clever programmable one. As has been said, just set your timer to CH permanently on and let the programmable stat control as you require. It sounds like you have a fully pumped Y plan system – not gravity fed. A...

Note forum rule 6. You would be better off starting a new thread anyway.

Just to return this disquisition back towards the OP’s question, below is a graph of condensing gas boiler efficiency versus return flow temp to give some idea of what might be expected. I took this from a paper on building temperature control and it gave no information as to exactly what boiler...

Thanks MJN, don’t know why plimico thinks that information is incomplete. I agree that he/ she is incorrect. The CM range would be pretty useless if it could not control 230V equipment. Check the spec sheet if you want confirmation. From the point of view of current rating, 0.75 cable would...

Yes, it is fine. Although the CM907 is battery operated, its switching contacts are desgined to work at 230V.

It is possible to improve the control of a conventional gravity HW/ pumped CH system by adding a tank thermostat interlock as shown below: In a standard gravity fed HW system, the boiler is on constantly when CH is on and the boiler cycles on its internal thermostat. With this...

You can get the manual here: http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/installer/literature/discontinued-boiler-literature/discontinued-gas-boiler-literature/24i-discontinued-november-2004-literature It is mains switching. You need to connect the thermostat receiver so that it returns the switched live...

28Si manual here: http://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/installer/products/gas-boilers/28si-february-2000-march-2002 To wire up a CM907, you simply connect boiler terminal Ls to thermostat terminal A and boiler Lr to thermostat B. See manual Figs 12 and 14.

In my experience (using a Honeywell CM907) during this recent cold weather the heating starts 2 hours before set time because it does take that long to heat up, even with a night set-back temperature of 13C. In milder weather it may be only 30 or 40 mins. So, yes, it does work. On the subject...

It’s a requirement of the Domestic Building Services Compliance Guide which is implementation guidance for building regs Part L1A and L1B. See: http://www.planningportal.gov.uk/uploads/br/domestic_building_compliance_guide_2010.pdf I just noticed - you are in Scotland so things will be...

It will connect (on terminals A & B) to the two wires in your current thermostat that are connected to the thermostat’s switch contacts. It doesn’t matter which way round they go. The other wire will be a neutral which is not needed and nor is the earth. These you should stow in a two terminal...

It is a relatively simple task, but it does involve working with mains wiring. I’d recommend a Honeywell CM907 programmable thermostat. It’s not the cheapest or probably the simplest, but it is an excellent controller (about £60). I initially fitted a cheaper unit but ended up replacing it with...

Strange to fit a frost stat in the dining room and not fit a room stat at all. I can’t see how a frost stat could turn on the heating in a gravity system. If anything it may just turn the boiler on. Whatever, it would be easy to fit a room thermostat as it would just be placed in the pump...

Do you know if it is a gravity fed hot water system? Are there any control valves in the system?

Is it combi boiler you have and, if so, what make/ model?

You want: A = RED B = BLUE C = nothing You should add a red sleeve to the blue wire to show that it is part of the live circuit and not a neutral.

No, the CM907 will only control the heating, but as you say HW is available anytime from the combi. So you don’t need the programmer. The CM907 can be set to have different programmes for every day of the week and, having set one day, those settings can be copied to another. It does not...

You are right, I think the best solution would be to dispose of the programmer and fit a programmable room stat. The Honeywell CM907 would be a good choice. Fitting it should be straight forward. The CM907 would simply connect to the same two wires as the T6060, either way round. The programmer...

Almost certainly not. Terminal 8 is the COM terminal for the DHW circuit, so something has overloaded this circuit, blown the fuse (or not?) and damaged the programmer.

You can't replace the 102e5 with the RDJ10 because you then have no way of controlling the HW circuit. The RDJ10 is programmable only for room temperature. You need to leave the HW output connected to the 102e5 (terminal 1) then connect the RDJ10 to the CH output. Take the wire from Terminal 2...